Rutkiewicz Wanda

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Biografie:


Rutkiewicz Wanda-Błaszkiewicz; * Plungė Płungianach auf Zmudz,(heute Litauen),1946 Breslau,
ab 1959 Warschau (Polen)
+ Kangchendzönga, verschollen
In 17 Jahren machte sie 22 Expeditionen im Himalaya und Karakoram.
Bis 1992 bestieg sie acht Achttausender.
Sehr früh entdeckte sie ihre Leidenschaft für die Berge. Zuerst kletterte sie auf lokale Felsen und dann in die Hohe Tatra, wo sie einige außergewöhnliche und extreme Routen im Sommer und Winter durchführte. In den Alpen, Norwegen, dem Pamir, dem Hindukusch, den Anden, Patagonien, Tibet und den USA, Yosemite und vor allem im Karakoram und im Himalaya war Wanda aktiv. Ihr Engagement für ihre geliebten Berge war total. Ihr berufliches und privates Leben war immer mit den Bergen verbunden. Voller Optimismus und Energie konnte sie sich nie vom Klettern zurückziehen, obwohl sie fast 30 Kletterfreunde in den Bergen verlor.
Obwohl sie manchmal in gemischten Parteien kletterte, war sie besonders beim Frauenbergsteigen beteiligt. Sie glaubte, dass Frauen die Herausforderung annehmen, ihre eigenen Entscheidungen treffen und die volle Verantwortung für sich selbst übernehmen sollten.
Wandas Hauptattribute waren extreme Kräfte der Ausdauer, Intelligenz, Entschlossenheit, Ehrgeiz und Leidenschaft für die Berge. Das waren die Eigenschaften, die sie zu einer so brillanten Himalaya-Bergsteigerin machte. Ihre Leistungen waren legendär.
Als eine sehr kreative Frau, machte Wanda mehrere Bergfilme. Die bekanntesten waren „Tango Aconcagua“ und „Snow Women“. Sie schrieb auch viele Beiträge in Fachzeitschriften und zeigte unzählige Diashows und Vorträge im In- und Ausland.
Die polnische und internationale Bergsteigergemeinschaft hat eine der bedeutendsten Bergsteigerinnen
und die größte weibliche Himalaya-Bergsteigerin verloren.
1962 Viele Touren Hohe Tatra
1964 Beg.Mnich-Nordostwand „Variante R“, (Hohe Tatra)
1967 Best.Montblanc,4850m, (Montblancgebiet)
1967 Beg.(1.Frauenseilschaft) Grépon-Ostwand,3482m, (Montblancgebiet)
1967 Best.Gands Charmoz,3444m, (Montblancgebiet)
1968 Beg.(1. Frauenseilschaft) Trollryggen-Ostpfeiler,VI,1600 HM, (Norwegen)
1970 Best.Pik Lenin,7134m, (Pamir,Tadschikistan/Kirgisien)
1971 Beg.Triglav-Nordwand „Bayerländer Weg“,2864m, (Julische Alpen)
1972 Best.Noshaq,7492m, (Hindukusch)
1973 2.Beg.u.1.Frauenbeg.Eiger-Nordwand-Nordpfeiler „Messner“,IV,60°,1800 HM,3970m,
(Berner Alpen)
1974 Best.Vers.Pik Korshenewskaja bis 7000m,7105m, (Pamir)
1975 1.Best.Gasherbrum III,7952m oder 7982, (Karakorum,Kaschmir)
1978 1.Frauenwinterbeg.Vers.Matterhorn-Nordwand „Schmidroute“,V,60°,1100 HM,4478m,
(Walliser Alpen)
1978 1.Frauenbest.Nanga Parbat,8125 m, (Himalaya,Pakistan)
1978 3.Frauenbest.Mount Everest von der Südseite,8848 m, (Himalaya,Nepal/Tibet)
1979 Beg.(1. Frauenseilschaft) Grand Capucin-Ostwand „Bonatti-Führe“,VI/A2,500 HM,3838m,
(Montblancgebiet)
1979 Frauenbeg.Petit Dru-Westwand „Amerikanische Direkte“,VI/A2,1000 HM,3733m,
(Montblancgebiet)
1981 Winterbest.Elbrus, 5642 m, (Kaukasus)
1982 Leiterin K2-Frauenexpetition, (Karakorum.Pakistan)
1984 Besteigungsversuch K2 bis 7400m, (Karakorum,Pakistan)
1984 Best.Vers.Broad Peak bis 7150m,8047m, (Karakorum)
1985 Best.(1. Frauenseilschaft) Nanga Parbat-Diamirflanke „Kinshofer-Route“,8125m,
(Karakorum,Pakistan)
1985 Best.Vers.Broad Peak bis 7800m,8047m, (Karakorum)
1985 Best.Aconcagua-Südwand,6959m, (Anden,Argentinien/Chile)
1986 1.Frauenbest.K2 „Abruzzisporn“,8611 m, (Karakorum,Pakistan)
1986 Best.Vers.Broad Peak,8047m, (Karakorum)
1986 Best.Vers.Makalu bis 8000m,8463m, (Himalaya,Nepal/Tibet)
1987 Winterbest.Vers.Annapurna bis 7000m,8091m, (Himalaya,Nepal)
1987 Best.Shisha Pangma,8046m, (Himalaya,Tibet)
1987 Best.Vers.Cerro Torre „Maestri-Route“,3128m, (Patagonien)
1988 Winterbest.Vers.Yalung Kang, (Himalaya)
1989 Best.Gasherbrum II,8035m, (Karakorum,Kaschmir)
1990 Best.Vers.Makalu,8463m, (Himalaya,Nepal/Tibet)
1990 Best.(1. Frauenseilschaft).Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak),8068m, (Karakorum,Kaschmir)
1991 Best.Vers.Kangchenjunga-Südwand,8586m, (Himalaya,Nepal/Indien)
1991 Alleinbeg.Cho Oyu-Westwand,8201m, (Himalaya,Nepal/Tibet)
1991 1.Frauenbeg.(Alleinbeg.)Annapurna-Südwand „Boninghton Weg“, 8091m, (Himalaya,Nepal)
1992 Best.Vers.Kanchenjunga bis 8300m,8586m, (Himalaya)
Gerd Schauer, Isny im Allgäu

geboren in Plunge (Liatuen)
gestorben (verschollen) am Kangchenzönga (Sikkim)
war als 78. Mensch auf dem Mount Everest

Wanda Rutkiewicz (1943-1992)
In May 1992 Poland and the international mountaineering community lost one of their most outstanding climbers: Wanda Rutkiewicz. She had been taking part in a Polish-Mexican expedition attempting the N face of Kangchenjunga. Wanda was last seen at 830om, about 250m from the summit, on 12 May by Carlos Carsolio. She never returned.
Wanda Rutkiewicz was born in Lithuania on 4 February 1943. In 1946 the family returned to Poland and lived in Wroclaw and then in Warsaw. Wanda gained a degree in Science and Engineering and worked at the Institute of Mathematical Machines in Warsaw. At an early age she discovered her passion for the mountains. First she climbed on local rocks and then in the High Tatras where she did some extraordinary and extreme routes in both summer and winter. These, together with her natural ability, gave her the skills and toughness required for the superb and difficult climbs she was to achieve all over the world: in the Alps, Norway, the Pamirs, the Hindu Kush, the Andes, Patagonia, Tibet, Yosemite and, most of all, in the Karakoram and the Himalaya.
I had the good fortune of knowing Wanda from the days of her early climbs in the Polish Tatras. We used to meet at the Warsaw High Mountaineering Club and on climbs in the Tatras, particularly in winter; we became good friends. I could already see her tremendous potential ability. As a person she was a softly-spoken beautiful woman with the expressive eyes of an explorer, and very elegant. In the mountains she was strong-willed and determined, and had tremendous physical and mental endurance. She overcame bouts of pneumonia and anaemia and, after several leg operations, managed to walk 300km on crutches while leading a Polish women's expedition to K2. Though she sometimes climbed in mixed parties, she was particularly involved in women's mountaineering. She believed that women should take up the challenge, make their own decisions and take full responsibility for themselves.
Wanda's main attributes were extreme powers of endurance, intelligence, determination, ambition, and passion for the mountains. Those were the characteristics which made her such a brilliant Himalayan climber. Her achievements were legendary: in 1975, with Alison Chadwick and a Polish team, she made the first ascent of Gasherbrum III (7952m), then the world's highest unclimbed mountain; in 1978 she became the third woman and the first Polish and European woman to climb Mount Everest; and in 1986 she was the first woman to climb K2. Over 17 years she made 22 expeditions to the Himalaya and Karakoram, and perhaps her most phenomenal achievement was to be the only woman to have climbed eight out of the fourteen 8000m peaks. As a Himalayan mountaineer she had no equal among women and few among men.
Wanda was married and divorced twice; she had no children. Her commitment to her beloved mountains was total. Her professional and private life was always linked to the mountains. Full of optimism and energy, she could never retire from climbing even though she lost nearly 30 climbing friends on the mountains.
A very creative person, Wanda made several mountain films; the best known were 'Tango Aconcagua' and 'Snow Women'. She also wrote well and gave countless slide shows and lectures both at home and abroad. She often came to the Buxton Conference and-always stayed with us in London. How I treasure the memory of those visits and how much it saddens me that there will be no more of them.
On 28 February 1991 Wanda Rutkiewicz officially announced her intention of climbing all fourteen of the 8000m peaks, calling it 'A caravan to dreams'. She wanted to attempt each 8000m summit having already acclimatised on the previous one, so that her body would function well at high altitude in a continuous process of acclimatisation. She believed it would then be possible to climb the rest of the 8000m peaks in a relatively short time. But her dreams were cut short tragically on Kangchenjunga when she was reported missing on 13 May 1992. The following summary of Wanda Rutkiewicz's most important climbs is a record of her achievement.
1967 East Face of Aiguille du Grepon (H82m) - first women's team ascent.
1968 East Pillar of TrolIryggen in Norway - first women's team ascent.
1970 Peak Lenin (71Hm) in the Pamirs.
1972 Noshaq (748om) - first Polish women's ascent.
1973 North Pillar of the Eiger (397om) by Messner's route - first women's
team ascent and second overall.
1975 First ascent of Gasherbrum III (7952m).
1978 North Face of the Matterhorn (4477m) - first women's team ascent in
winter.
1978 Everest (8848m) - first Polish and European women's ascent and third
women's ascent.
1979 East Face of Grand Capucin (3838m) by Bonatti's route - first
women's team ascent.
1985 Aconcagua (696om) - South Face in alpine style.
1985 Nanga Parbat (8I25m) by Diamir Face- first women's team ascent.
1986 K2 (861 1m) - first female ascent.
1987 Shishapangma (8046m).
1989 Gasherbrum II (803Sm) women's team ascent.
1990 Gasherbrum I (8068m) - first women's team ascent.
1991 Cho Oyu (8201m) - summit reached solo.
1991 Annapurna (8091m) - first woman to climb the British route on the
South Face. Summit reached alone.
Wanda's family have suffered a tragic loss; the Polish and international mountaineering community have lost the greatest ever female Himalayan climber; I shall remember Wanda Rutkiewicz and miss her with much sadness as my good and reliable friend.
Ingeborga Doubrawa-Cochlin
Quelle: Alpine Journal Vol. 98, 1993, Seite 321-323



Geboren am:
04.02.1943
Gestorben am:
12.05.1992
application/pdf Rutkiewicz Wanda - BST 1982-4.pdf
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