1962 1.Beg.Aiguille Petit du Dru Westwand-Direkte Einstiegsvariante "Hemming-Robbins,Amerikanerführe",
VI/A2,700 HM,3754m, (Montblancgebiet)
1963 Beg.Grande Jorasses-Walkerpfeiler,VI/A1,1200 HM,4208m, (Montblancgebiet)
1964 1.Beg.Aiguille du Fou-Südwand,VI/A2,300 HM,3501m, (Montblancgebiet)
Beg.Grand Capucin-Ostwand,3838m, (Montblancgebiet)
Beg.Petit Jorasses-Westwand,3650m, (Montblancgebiet)
Petit Dru-Südwestpfeiler "Bonattipfeiler",VI/A2,1100 HM,3733m, (Montblancgebiet)
Alleinbeg.Aiguille Verte-Nordostwand "Couturier-Couloir",49°-55°,4121m, (Montblancgebiet)
Gerd Schauer, Isny im Allgäu
I met Gary at Tahquitz Rock in 1952, when we were both just starting to climb. He wasn't a particularly gifted climber then. It seemed that he had to fall once or twice before he could climb-then his jaw would set, his deep-set eyes would glitter, and one way or another he would get up.
In earlier days he was a happy-go-lucky guy; easy-going, with a charism that touched every acquaintance. As he developed into a more powerful and respected climber, his already strong personality became more vibrant. He was volatile; unpredictable, hilariously funny and infuriatingly antagonistic, deeply philosophical and childishly superficial all at once. One could not put a finger on the centre of Gary Hemming and say 'This is Gary Hemming. I know him and what he is.'
Apparently, neither could he. The news that he had taken his own life came as a shock, but somehow not as a surprise. In spite of his intensity there was an ephemeral quality about him-when he was away there was an almost conscious feeling that he wouldn't be seen again.
His climbs need no review. I spent three days with him in March 1969, and he seemed to attach little importance to them, impressive as they were. He was then much more concerned with the deteriorating mountain environment of the Alps, and the thoughtlessness of those climbers who are making garbage dumps of them. He commented, with the spattering of oaths which was his normal pattern of speech, that he was sometimes ashamed to be known as an alpinist.
Wherever he went, Hemming left behind him a residue of his intensity. It was impossible to be indifferent to him or to forget him, and both his personality and his alpinism can hardly help becoming legendary. He will not be forgotten.
Wayne P. Merry
Gary Hemming was more or less the first of the American climbers I met (at Chamonix) and it took a little time to realise that he was just like the other penniless occupants of the Biolet camp site. He was a very talented climber with the urge to do bigger and better climbs. With Royal Robbins he made a new direct start to the West face of the Dru. He then did the first American ascent ofthe Walker, after which, together with Harlin, Frost and Fulton, he made the first ascent of the South face of the Fou (A.A.J. 1964 81). He continued to travel around Europe 'preparing' for next season. In 1966 he organised the rescue party which succeeded in rescuing the two German climbers blocked on the West face of the Dru. One always felt with Gary in the area that if anything happened up on a big face then at least one person would be starting up the rescue party. I'll miss Gary and I know many others will too; and it won't be just because of all the extra beers he bought or because he was always prepared to go out of his way to help us.
Quelle: Alpine Journal Volume 75, 1970, Seite 342-343