Aldeguer Juan C.
aus Barcelona (Spanien)
In 1984 the Catalan team fixed some rope on the base of the pillar and then climbed the route in capsule style, making hammock bivouacs. Although they left a considerable amount of equipment on the route (ropes in the upper section, many pegs, rubbish on the ledges and an unnecessary bolt), the line was completed more or less using natural gear throughout. On the second overall and first alpine-style ascent, which took place later the same year, Americans Scott Flavelle and David Lane cleaned most of the route. Despite this, the Swiss found considerable amounts of old fixed rope (which they didn’t use and some of which they cleaned) but took the liberty of carrying a battery-powered drill to place a single 8mm bolt anchor at the end of each 60m pitch to facilitate constructing a better line for their fixed ropes. They spent a total of 18 days (out of 40 at or above base camp) climbing the route and feel that their style was acceptable given the conditions, which had already sent most other teams in the Gangotri packing for home. For a topo illustration of the routes on Bhagirathi III, see AAJ 1999, page 97.
Quelle: American Alpine Journal 2004, Vol. 46, Seite 380