Allan Sandy

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Biografie:
Schotte
Teilnehmer an der britischen Khumbu-Himal-Expedition 1986 (Nachmonsun) unter seiner Leitung mit 4 Teilnehmern;
Besteigung des Pumori (7145m) im Alpinstil in 6 tagen mit seinem Landsmann R. Allan am 19. Oktober 1986. der Aufstieg erfolgte über die Südwand (vermutlich erste Begehung). Abstieg über den Südwestgrat zum Westgrat (vermutlich erste Begehung). Keine Zwischenlager errichtet - nur 5 Biwaks. Die Versuche der amerikanischen Expeditionsteilnehmer scheiterten an den extremen Höhenstürmen;
Quelle: Archiv Proksch (Österr. Alpenklub)
Pumori, South Face. Base Camp was established on October 7 on the eastern flanks of Kala Pattar. On October 10 we pitched a tent at 5500 meters on Kala Pattar where Rick Allen and I acclimatized. The U.S. members, Morris Kittleman and Dave Saiget, arrived at Base on the 11th and decided to spend several days acclimatizing. On the 14th we two Scots began to climb the south face and bivouacked at 5600 meters. The following day took us up mixed ground where we were forced to abseil into the main couloir. We climbed this for several difficult pitches and bivouacked at 5850 meters. We ascended the rest of the couloir on the 16th and bivouacked in a cave at 6100 meters. We moved together over the next two days, bivouacking at 6600 and 7000 meters. On the morning of the 19th at ten A.M. we stood on the summit. We descended the southwest ridge for several hundred meters and then climbed down the large couloir on the west face, arriving at a safe site on the Changri Shar at ten P.M. at 5400 meters. The next day we returned to Base Camp. The Americans later made an attempt but retreated from 6000 meters because of high winds. We believe this was a previously unclimbed route.
Sandy Allan, Scottish Mountaineering Club
Quelle: American Alpin Journal 1987, Vol. 29, Seite 236

Peaks near Latok. The goal of our expedition was to make the first complete ascent of the north ridge of Latok I. The mountain had been ascended once before from the south by Japanese in 1979. Some confusion exists in the designation of the Latok peaks. Our objective is marked with an altitude of 7145 meters on the new map of the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research. Our climbers were Austrian Robert Schauer and Britons Rick Allen, Sandy Allan, Simon Yates and I as leader. Except for Schauer, we reached the roadhead at Foljo on May 30 and continued through Askole and up the Panmah and Choktoi Glaciers. We placed Base Camp on June 6 on the Choktoi Glacier at 4000 meters below Hanipispur South and about a kilometer short of the foot of Latok I’s north ridge. Allen, Allan, Yates and I ascended Biacherahi Dome to the north of Biacherahi Tower. An attempt on the northern side of Biacherahi foundered in deep, unstable snow. We four attempted Hanipispur South but retreated from the summit pyramid after encountering unstable snow overlying granite. Sandy Allan’s and my attention was drawn to a fine granite prow projecting from Latok III. The first ascent of this 3000-foot rock climb took three days of sustained, difficult free climbing and three pitches with some artificial aid. Rick Allen and Simon Yates crossed the Nobande Sobande Glacier and explored the east ridge of Bobisghir before retreating because of unstable snow. At that point we were joined by Robert Schauer. Because of the difficult and dangerous snow condi tions and the forbidding appearance of the pendulous snow mushrooms adorning the north ridge of Latok I, we renounced our principal objective. A consensus on an alternative objective could not be reached and so the team divided. Sandy Allan and I departed, looking for lower-altitude rock. On June 26, between the Jola bridge and Askole, one of our porters, Sher Mohammed, slipped and fell from a high rocky section of the path into the Braldu River. Despite considerable searching, his body could not be found. The other three failed on the south ridge of Bobisghir. Schauer and Yates tackled some rock spires above Base Camp and traveled over the Sim La overlooking Snow Lake. Later they moved to the Hushe valley where they made the second ascent of a prominent granite spire.
Douglas Scott
Quelle: American Alpine Journal 1991, Vol. 33, Seite 274

1986 1.Beg.Pumori Parbat-Südostwand,7161m, (Himalaya,Nepal/China)
1990 Beg.Vers.Nanga Parbat-Mazenograt bis 3.Gratgipfel, (Himalaya,Pakistan)
2009 Beg.Nanga Parbat-Diamir Flanke,8125m, (Himalaya,,Pakistan)
2012 1.Beg.Nanga Parbat ?Gesamter Mazeno-Grat?,8126m, (Himalaya,Pakistan)
Gerd Schauer, Isny im Allgäu

Geboren am:
1956