Ang Riti Sherpa

(Bearbeiten)

Biografie:
War bis einschließlich 1987 3-mal am Mount Everest.

Zehnte Besteigung des Dhaulagiri (8167m) am 13. Mai 1980 mit Hans Kaenel und Fritz Luchsinger über den Nordostgrat.
Vierzehnte Besteigung des Dhaulagiri (8167m) mit S. Burkhardt und J. Müller über den Nordostgrat.
Achzehnte Besteigung des Dhaulagiri (8167m) am 5. Mai 1982 über den Nordostgrat mit den Belgiern Philip Cornelissen und Rudy von Snirk.
Besteigung des Mount Everest im Rahmen der "Tschechischen Everest Expedition 1984" im Nachmonsun unter der Leitung von F. Kele über den Südpfeiler (Polenroute) am 15. Oktober 1984 (ohne künstl. Sauerstoff) mit Z. Denjan und J. Psotka. Beim Abstieg über den Süd-Col verunglückte J. Psotka tödlich.
Besteigung des Cho Oyu (8201m) über die Südwestwand im Jahre 1984 mit Vera Karmarkova, Dina Sterbova und Nuru Sherpa.
Teilnehmer an der "Spanischen Kangchenjunga-Himal Expedition 1986" im Nachmonsun unter der Leitung von Joan Hugas (10 Spanier, 5 Nepali). Am 24. Oktober erreichen Josep Permané und Joan Hugas mit Ang Rita eine Höhe von 8400 m am Normalweg des Kangchenjunga (8586m). Wegen extremer Kälte wurde die Expedition abgebrochen. Beim Abstieg verunglückte Lhakpa Nuru tödlich.
Teilnehmer an der "Chilenischen Expedition in den Khumbu Himal" zum Cho Oyu im Nachmonsun unter Leitung von Mauricio Purto mit 4 Teilnehmern. Am 29. April 1987 wurde der Gipfel des Cho Oyu über die Westflanke (Tichyroute) mit dem Chilenen Mauricio Purto, Italo Valle und dem Sherpa Ang Furi.
Teilnehmer an der "Südkoreanischen Khumbu-Himal Expedition zum Mount Everest 1987/88" unter der Leitung von H.T. Young. Am 22. Dezember 1987 wurde der Gipfel ohne künstlichen Sauerstoff, über den Normalweg (Süd-Col) mit H.J. Ho erreicht.
Quelle: Archiv Proksch (Österr. Alpenklub)

Kangchenjunga.
Our expedition climbed Kangchenjunga by the southwest face, the normal route. We left Kathmandu on August 22 and got to Ramze, the last camp before the glacier, in 12 days. There, we lost our fifth Sherpa, Lhakpa Nuru, who mysteriously disappeared, never to be seen again. We then had the usual porter problems and bad weather, which made us take nine days to get the rest of the way to Base Camp, which should have taken us two; we and the Sherpas had to ferry to Base Camp, which we placed at 5000 meters on September 15. We established Camps I, II and III at 6100 meters on the intermediate ridge, at 6700 meters and at 7200 meters on the upper “plateau” on September 22, 25 and 27. On October 6 we returned to Camp III. By then, all camps were stocked and 1200 meters of rope had been fixed. Heavy snowfall prevented our establishing Camp IV and forced us back to Base Camp. Finally on October 16 we placed Camp IV at 7800 meters, having had to dig out Camp II and replace Camp III, which was destroyed by avalanches that fell from Yalung Kang. The next day a summit attempt in bad weather failed when one member had superficial frostbite. The constant bad weather changed on the 20th, but it was cold and windy. We started a last try on October 21, getting to Camp IV on the 23rd. At two A.M. on October 24 Josep Parmañé, Ang Rita Sherpa and I set out. At 8400 meters the intense cold forced me back. My companions reached the summit at one P.M. and were back in Camp IV at five P.M. This was Ang Rita’s fourth 8000er. He has climbed Dhaulagiri four times, Everest three times, Cho Oyu and Kangchenjunga each once. Our Catalán expedition was composed of Josep Permañé, Ramón Estiu, Francesc Casas, Joan Cardona, Xabier Erro, Santi Carrillo, Salvador Coll, Kim Bover, Dr. Jordi Terrades and me as leader.
Joan Hugas, Girona, Spain
Quelle: American Alpine Journal 1987, Volume 29, Seite 221

Cho Oyu.
Alejandro Izquierdo, Italo Valle, Rodrigo Mújica and I established Base Camp at 5200 meters on April 3 and Camp I at 5600 meters. In order to reach Camp II at 5850 meters on the normal (Tichy) route on Cho Oyu, we had to cross either the Nangpa La or the Senta-ghu pass; we did it both ways. Camps III and IV were at 6600 and 7200 meters. On April 28 we set up two tents at Camp V at 7600 meters. After six hours on April 29, Valle, Ang Rita, Ang Phuri and I reached the summit. Swiss Fredy Graf and Josef Wangeler arrived just five minutes after us. (See Cho Oyu from Tibet.— Editor.) This was one of the only three sunny days we had on the expedition. Izquierdo and Mújica got to Camp V in a second summit try but could not continue because of bad weather. Ang Rita has one of the best records of the Sherpas. He has now climbed to the summits of ten 8000ers: Dhaulagiri (4), Everest (3), Cho Oyu (2), Kangchenjunga (1).
Mauricio Purto, Chilean Section of the Club Alpino Italiano
Quelle: American Alpine Journal 1988, Volume 30, Seite 210

Everest.
A Korean expedition led by Hahm Tak-Young successfully climbed Everest by the South Col. Heo Young-Ho and Ang Rita Sherpa reached the summit on December 22. Heo used oxygen while sleeping at Camp IV on the South Col, where he spent three nights, and above while climbing and bivouacking, but Ang Rita used none at any time. They left Camp IV at half past midnight and arrived on the summit at 2:20 P.M., having had trouble finding the route past numerous crevasses. They began their descent at three P.M. and near the south summit made an unprepared bivouac. Heo had fallen 15 meters down the east face when a cornice collapsed under him. He was unhurt. He and Ang Rita were roped and the Sherpa held the fall. They were only slightly frostbitten. This was Ang Rita’s fourth ascent of Everest, making him the second man atop Everest four times (following Sundare Sherpa). He claims to have made all ascents without artificial oxygen. This would make him the first to make four ascents without bottled oxygen, including the only winter ascent without it.
Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley
Quelle: American Alpine Journal 1988, Volume 30, Seite 206