Rey Adolphe

(Bearbeiten)

Biografie:
Bergführer, * Courmayeur, + Courmayeur (Italien)

Sohn von Emile Rey
Adolphe Rey ist noch nicht 18 Jahre alt,als sein Vater,der Bergsteiger Émile Rey,abgestürzt ist. Trotzdem widmete sich Adolphe auch den Bergen und machte sehr viele Erstbegehungen,die in die Geschichte des Bergsteigens eingingen. Auf der italienischen Seite führte Rey großartige Anstiege durch. Er stieg über den Innominatagrat auf den Montblanc, auf den Grand Capucin und auf die Grandes Jorasses über den Hirondellesgrat. Außerhalb des Montblanc nahm Adolphe Rey 1906 mit Fanny Bullock Workman und William Hunter Workman an einer Expedition nach Kaschmir und zwei Expeditionen ins Karakorum 1908 und 1912 teil. Viel später,im Alter von fünfundachtzig Jahren,klettert er immer noch auf die Aiguilles Marbrées,3535 m.
1898 Beg.Monts Rouges à l'Aiguille de Triolet, (Montblancgebiet)
1906 Teiln.Expedition ins Kaschmir,
1908 Teiln.Expeditionen in den Karakorum
1912 Teiln.Expeditionen in den Karakorum,
1914 1.Best.Petit Capucin,3693m, (Montblancgebiet)
1914 1.Best.Montblanc de Tacul-Diablegrat,4248m, (Montblancgebiet)
1919 1.Beg.Montblanc-Innominatagrat,IV,Eis bis 54°,800 HM vom Col Eccles,4807m,
(Montblancgebiet)
1923 1.Best.Pointe Bich,3753m, (Montblancgebiet)
1924 1.Best.Grand Capucin,3838m, (Montblancgebiet)
1927 1.Beg.Grandes Jorasses-Pointe Walker-Nordostgrat-(Hirondellesgrat)
"Fissure Rey" im Aufstieg,V+/A1,750 HM,4208m, (Montblancgebiet)
1927 1.Beg.Aiguille de Leschaux-Nordwestgrat,V-,650 HM,3759m, (Montblancgebiet)
1963 Beg.Nadeln del Cole
1963 Beg.Aiguilles Marbrées,3535 m, (Montblancgebiet)
Gerd Schauer, Isny im Allgäu


Adolphe Rey of Courmayeur also died last year. In 1927 he was leading guide on the first ascent of the North-east (Hirondelles) arete of the Grandes Jorasses, and three years previously had made the first ascent of the Grand Capucin. Adolphe was the son of Emile Rey (killed on the Aiguille du Geant in 1895) and was ninety-one years of age at the time of his death.
Quelle: Alpine Journal Volume 75, 1970, Seite 347

Adolphe Rey 1878-1969
There has been some criticism of our treatment of eminent mountaineers who are not members of the Club, particularly with reference to Adolphe Rey in A.J. 75 347. To produce a meaningful biography of an old mountaineer may involve lengthy research in a range of periodicals, and considerable correspondence. When somebody can be found to undertake this particular literary task, our coverage of such cases will improve.
T. A. Brocklebank has kindly submitted a note on Adolphe Rey written by Mrs Sylvia Branford, daughter of our late President, Tom Longstaff. Unfortunately this is too long for inclusion in its entirety, but the main points are summarised below, retaining, it is hoped, most of her sympathetic attitude to one who was obviously an outstanding guide.
Mrs Branford had two Alpine seasons with Rey and Longstaff, in 1930 and 1933. Rey, she says, was the ideal guide for a beginner-'kind, quick, gentle and humorous, while he was so modest that it was hard to think of him as a great and much travelled mountaineer'. Longstaff and Rey 'loved mountains in the same way and climbing with them was getting to know and love a mountain. Adolphe, although it was his daily bread, climbed with gaiety and delight, and made me feel, as did T. G. L., that mountains were not giants to battle with but great presences that fortunate people might come to know'.
Of the man himself, Mrs Branford writes, 'His home was in Courmayeur and he spoke the French of those parts, although actually an Italian. In appearance he was small and neat. The neatness extended to his clothes, beautifully laundered shirts, collarless, fastened with a gold stud, and a blue silk handkerchief which was sometimes used as a cravat. He wore a wide-brimmed felt hat with an upward sweep, and the face below the brim was oval, wrinkled like a walnut and dominated by large, alert eyes. His frequent smile, modest and quizzical, was the three-cornered sort. His hands were small and deft, the hands of a fine carpenter, as his chalet witnessed'.
In addition to his notable Alpine record, Rey had visited the Himalaya and the Karakoram with the Bullock Workmans and with the Duke of the Abruzzi.
Quelle: Alpine Journal Volume 76, 1971, Seite 339


Geboren am:
06.09.1878
Gestorben am:
19.09.1969