Harlin John E.
John E. Harlin (1935-1966)
John Harlin, who was killed in March last during the first ascent of the Eigerwand direttissima, had only been elected to the Alpine Club in January, and inevitably he had not become much known to members. That he had attained an outstanding place among American experts in artificial climbing was well known, and he had addressed the Club on March 23, 1965, on modern climbing developments, as exemplified in a winter attempt on the Eigerwand direct, and the North face of the Mönch. His membership form for the A.C. shows only a proportion of the ascents he had made, and these may be summarised as under:
U.S.A. The 'classical routes' (i.e. exceedingly severe) in the Yosemite valley; winter ascents in the Grand Tetons; exploration and various first ascents in the Hot Creek Range, Nevada; the Trinity Alps, California; and six ascents of Mount Rainier.
Canada He had climbed in the Northern Battle and Purcell Ranges, in the Selkirks, and in the Canadian Rockies (ascents include Mount Sir Donald by the North-west ridge and the traverse of Mount Victoria).
Alps Eiger (North face); Matterhorn (North face); Fou (South face direct, first ascent); Blaitiere (West face direct, first ascent); Dru (West face direttissima, first ascent); Mont Blanc by Hidden Pillar (Freney) and Right-hand Pillar (Brouillard), both first ascents; Cima Grande (Comici route) in winter.
Mr. Leigh N. Ortenburger writes:
It is curious that one can associate and climb with others without really ever learning many of the details of their life. This seems to be the case with my knowledge of John; I do not even know his middle name. John and his parents used to live nearby in Los Altos, California, but his parents moved to the east some years ago. I knew John when he was a student at Stanford University here in Palo Alto, and he graduated but I am uncertain as to the year. Following that he served with the U.S. Air Force as a jet fighter pilot, being stationed mostly in Germany. My only climb with him was a winter attempt on the Grand Teton in 1955 Had the weather not been unfavourable, he and Gary Hemming and my wife and I were going to climb in the Chamonix area in 1961; we even discussed the possibility of mounting an expedition to K2,
but nothing ever came of this.
With various people John made a good many difficult rock climbs in Yosemite during his Stanford years; he was an exceptional climber in a great many ways and his accident was a terrible tragedy.
Quelle: Alpine Journal Volume 71, 1966, Seite 346-347
Harlin John II,* Kansas City,USA, ab 1963 in Leysin (Waadtländische Alpen) und Chamonix
+ Eiger Nordwand (Seilriss)
1962 28.Beg.Eiger-Nordwand "Heckmair-Route",V,Eis bis 55°,1800 HM,3970 m, (Berner Alpen)
1963 1.Beg.Aiguille du Fou-Südwand,VI-/A2,Eis 50°,650 HM,3501m, (Montblancgebiet)
1963 1.Beg.Montblanc-Linker Freneypfeiler "Harlinpfeiler",VII,300 HM,4807m, (Montblancgebiet)
1964 1.Beg.Aiguille de Blatière-Westwand "Harlin/Mazeaud-Führe",3522m, (Montblancgebiet)
1965 1.Beg.Petit Dru Direkte Westwand "Direkte Americaine,Harlin-Robbins",VI/A4,3733m,
Gerd Schauer, Isny im Allgäu