Jaeger Nicolas Dr.

(Bearbeiten)

Biografie:
geboren in Paris
verschollen am Lhotse Shar

Quelle: Alpin 1980, Heft 8, Seite 56 mit Porträt
Quelle: Alpine Journal 1982, Seite 264 f mit Porträt
Quelle: La Montagne 1979/80, Seite 455 mit Porträt

Nicolas Jaeger (1946-1980)
Whilst climbing to the South Colon Everest in October 1978, Nicolas Jaeger carefully studied the formidable S face of Lhotse, high, steep, exposed to avalanches which rushed down the couloirs. He hoped meanwhile to find a way on this S face-an objective for the year 2000.
Gifted with an iron constitution, an excellent technician, he had behind him a marvellous list of expeditions; to be Kin with the Alps and only mention the most notable, often first solo ascents:
Aiguille Verte, by the arete Sans-nom, in 5t h and by the Mont-Blanc in 5 h; Droites by the Eperon Nord in 7+ h and by the N face (voie Davaille-Cornuau) in 7+ h; Traverse Tronchey-Grandes Jorasses-Rochefort-Geant in 14 h; Mont-Blanc du Tacul, Pilier Gervasutti, in 5 h; Aig. Noire de Peuterey, S arete in 6 h; Mont Blanc, Route Major, in 4 h and particularly putting together the routes Bonatti-Gobbi on the Pilier d'Angle and Pilier du Freney in 17 h (one bivouac).
After these climbs and many others in the Alps, Nicolas went to the Andes for a long stay, during which he successfully made a number of solo and first ascents. Among others: In 1977; N Alpamayo by the SW face; N Santa-Cruz by the N arete integrale; N Ranrapalca by the SE face; N Palcaraju by the SE arete; Huascaran by the NE arete. In 1978; Taulliraju by the SSE arete; Abasraju by the E face; N Huandoy W by the S face and Chacraraju E by the S face direct.
The same year, in the autumn, Nicolas went to Everest; he was the doctor of the expedition, for after a degree in economic science, he studied medicine and specialized in high altitude physiology. In 1979, he went back to Peru and his activities were in two parts: first, a certain number of climbs, Ninashanca by the W' shoulder; Yerupaya by the W face and arcte; Trapicio, traverse b the W shoulder and N face, and the complete traverse of the summits of Rasac; second, survival alone on Huascaran: studies on the resistance of human organisms at very high altitude, in the course of a stay of two months at 6700m close to the highest summit of the Peruvian Andes. He told this story in his interesting book Carnet de Solitude.
At last in the pring of 1981 he fell ready for his grand project-the face of Lhotse. On 19, 20 and 21 April he made a tentative attack, after 3 days on this giganti face reaching a height of 6500m, but giving up in the face of 'les risqué énormes dus aux avalanch s fréquemes et qu 'on ne voit pas arriver' as he wrote in his journal.
He renewed his effons on the face of Lhotse Shar. Very well acclimatized, he climbed rapidly. On the 25th he bivouacked at about 8000m. Looking through a 1000mm telephoto lens, he was seen by a cameraman of an Anglo-American TV team as a tiny dol. The next day he was seen once more at about 8200m. On the 27th the weather was again fine, but rapidly deteriorated and 2 days later there was a considerabl amount of fresh snow on Everest and Lhotse. His friends waited at Everest Base Camp from which he had set out, but in vain. They watched for some sign; Nicolas did not return. Where and when had he disappeared?-no one will ever know.
With Nicolas Jaeger there disappeared a passionate man, who was at the same time lucid and stable, having great experience of mountains and also of his own strengths, a man looking to the future.
Gaston Rebuffat
Quelle: Alpine Journal Volume 87, 1982, Seite 264-265

Extemer Alleingänger
1975 1.Alleinbeg. Pilier d´Angle-Nordostwand „Bonatti-Gobbi-Führe”,VI/A1,900 HM,4243m, (Montblancgebiet)
1977 Best.ca.30 Sechstausender bei der Andenexpedition Cordillera Blanca(Peru)
1977 Best.Taulliraju-Südostwand,ED +, 800m,5840m, (Cordillera Blanca,Peru)
1977 Alleinbeg.Alpamayo-Südwestflanke,400 HM,5947m, (Cordillera Blanca,Peru)
1977 Alleinbeg.Santa Cruz Sur,6259m,(Cordillera Blanca,Peru)
1977 Beg.Santa Cruz-Nordwestgrat,TD 900 m,6259m, (Cordillera Blanca,Peru)
1977 Beg.Santa Cruz-Südwand,TD 900 m,6259m, (Cordillera Blanca,Peru)
1977 1.Beg.(Alleinbeg.)Ranrapalca-Südostflanke,6168m, (Cordillera Blanca,Peru)
1977 1.Beg.(Alleinbeg.)Pucaranra-Nordwestgrat,650 HM,6147m,(Anden,Peru)
1977 Best.Palcaraju-Südgipfel- SE Grat (TD),5900m, (Cordillera Blanca,Peru)
1977 1.Beg.(Alleinbeg.)Palcaraju Ostgipfel-Südostgrat,6274m,(Anden,Peru)
1977 1.Beg.Huascaran-Südgipfel-Nordostgrat,1350 HM,6768m,(Cordillera Blanca,Peru)
1978 .Best.Mount Everest,Skiabfahrt von 8300m,8848 m,(Himalaya,Nepal/Tibet)
1978 Beg.East Chacraraju (6001 m) S Gesicht (ED 700 mts) (Cordillera Blanca,Peru)
1978 Beg.Westen Huandoy (6356 m) SW Face (TD + 1000 m) (Cordillera Blanca,Peru)
1978 Beg.Abasraju (5550 m) N Gesicht (TD 700mts) (Cordillera Blanca,Peru)
Quelle: Gerhard Schauer, Isny im Allgäu


Geboren am:
20.10.1946
Gestorben am:
28.04.1980