Contamine André

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Biografie:
geboren in Chamonix (Frankreich)

Bergführer in Chamonix; Professor an der Ecole National de Ski et a'Alpinisme seit 1975. 1942 französischer Meister im Skilauf; Zählt neben Michel Bastion zu den besten Eisgehern; Mitarbeit am Buch von Walter Pause "Im extremen Fels";
30 Neubegehungen im Montblanc-Gebiet;
Erster Direkter Durchstieg durch die Triolet Nordwand im Jahre 1947;
Erste Begehung der Westwand an der Petit Jorasses mit M. Brau und P. Labrunia am 20. und 21. August 1955;
Expedition zum Mustagh Tower im Jahre 1956;
Erste Begehung der Nordwestwand des Tacul mit P. Mazeaud im Jahre 1963;
Quelle: Archiv Proksch (Österr. Alpenklub)

Andre Contamine, erfolgreicher französischer Bergsteiger und Bergführer, eine der bekanntesten Persönlichkeiten am Fuß des Montblancs, verließ Mitte August die ENSA, um in den Ruhestand zu treten. Er wurde am 24. August 1919 geboren. 1942 wurde er französischer Meister im Skilauf. 1943 erwarb er das Skilehrer- und bald später auch das Bergführerdiplom. Ihm gelangen 1500 Besteigungen, davon 40 Erstbegehungen. Seine Routen durch die Moine-Ostwand, die Aiguille-du-Midi-Südwand, die Aiguille-Verte-Nordwand, die Petites-Jorasses-Westwand und viele andere seiner Routen haben heute noch Weltruf. Zu seinen Seilgefährten zählten Franco, Lachenal, Terray, Rébuffat, Paragot, Vaucher, Desmaison und andere namhafte Bergsteiger. Contamine trug wesentlich zur Entwicklung der Eistechnik und der Rettungstechnik bei. Seit 1975 war er Professor an der Ecole Nationale de Ski et d'Alpinisme und in dieser Funktion verantwortlich für Bergsteigen und Skiwesen. Internationalen Beziehungen war er stets aufgeschlossen, er hat Freunde in der ganzen Welt. Anläßlich der Abschiedsfeier in Chamonix bezeichnete ihn Minister Yves Ballu als ein Vorbild in der sich stets wandelnden Welt des Alpinismus.
Quelle: Der Bergsteiger 1984, Heft 12, Seite 104

Andre Contamine 1919-1985
Andre Contamine, Honorary Member of the ACG since 1970, died of a heart attack in March 1985, shortly after retiring from his work at the Ecole Nationale de Ski et Alpinisme (ENSA), Chamonix-Mt Blanc. A man of remarkable warmth, he was always ready to help and advise climbers from his enormous knowledge of the Mt Blanc area, and will be missed sadly by his many British mountaineering friends.
He came from the mountain village of Feissons-sur-Salins in the Tarentaise. When in Paris, he met up with Pierre Allain and subsequently returned to the mountains with the Chasseurs Alpins, participating in the Liberation of the Tarentaise. As a guide he was an instructor at the Ecole Militaire de Haute Montagne; and joined ENSA when it first started.
His influence on French mountaineering and skiing technical development through ENSA was continuous and profound. He climbed and ski'd with flair and technical perfection; and was able to demonstrate and teach his methods with great clarity and precision. He made a particular contribution in iceclimbing, with brilliant use of crampons on steep ground, exemplified by his direct ascent of the N face of the Triolet (with Louis Lachenal) and with the development of the Super Conta ice-axe, regarded by many as the best of its time. But he was also an initiator of the new French skiing methods of the 1950s and 1960s, particularly by avalement, seeming to float down through deep snow, like a bird on the wing. He became chief mountaineering instructor at the Ecole, before eventually taking national responsibility there for French skiteaching and for the training of mountain guides.
I first met him at the Envers des Aiguilles hut in 1952, when Roger Chorley, Geoff Sutton and I were there to do the East Ridge of the Dent du Crocodile. He was very helpful about the line of the route; and it was only much later that I heard that he had himself done this climb, together with the E ridge of the Plan, and most of the E face of the Caiman, in a single morning, before a storm stopped them!
He did about 1500 routes, including most of the major ascents of the time, with notable speed. Of these, about 40 were first ascents, and there is many a voie Contamine, for instance on the S face of the Dru or the W face of the Petites Jorasses, characterized by a directness and elegance ofline and, originally, by a lack of pegs, which is still apparently found quite hard even 30 or more years later. He was very much tied to the Ecole; but managed to get away for the successful Mustagh Tower expedition in 1956, with Paragot, Magnone and Keller.
He also made a major contribution to mountain rescue techniques, being responsible for the training of mountain rescue teams. He took part in about 60 rescues himself, sometimes at considerable personal risk. He was an early believer in the potential of the helicopter for rescues, demonstrating this by landing on the summit of Mt Blanc in 1955.
A fine photographer, he won first prize at the Trento Film Festival. His links with British climbers were particularly close; and he was a regular source of information for the ACG Bulletin. He was a correspondent for Ken Wilson's Mountain, and provided reports of outstanding value and completeness about developments in the Mont Blanc group at a time of many major new winter ascents and solo climbs. His article “Mont Blanc - the massif and its climbs” in Mountain 43 gives an indication of his immense knowledge of the area.
Sad to say, he and his wife, Raymonde, suffered a deep personal tragedy with the loss of their daughter Arielle, French junior ice-skating champion, in a road accident. I last ski'd with him at Lognan in January 1985, when he and Raymonde were about to undertake a post-retirement tour to Ceylon. It was a happy renewal of my earlier skiing with him, with Andre still demonstrating that skiing fluency, and love and enthusiasm for the mountains, combined with his customary humility and sense of humour, for which I will always remember him.
Alan Blackshaw
Quelle: Alpine Journal Volume 91, 1986, Seite 272-273

Contamine André,Bergführer, * Chamonix
Erfolgreicher französischer Bergsteiger und Bergführer, eine der bekanntesten Persönlichkeiten am Fuß des Montblancs, 1500 Besteigungen,40 Erstbegehungen
1942 Französischer Meister im Skilauf
1946 1.Beg.Les Droites-Nordostpfeiler-Dir.Ausstieg,V+,WI 4+,1210 HM,4000m, (Montblancgebiet)
1947 3.Beg.Aiguille deTriolet-Nordwand mit direktem Ausstieg
„Contamine-Lachenal-Führe“,(1.Beg.)700 HM,60°,3870m, (Montblancgebiet)
1948 1.Beg.Aiguille de I’M-Gesamter Nordnordostgrat,V+,200 HM,2844m, (Montblancgebiet)
1948 1.vollständige Beg.Aiguille de I‘M-Nordostwand,V,100 HM,2844m, (Montblancgebiet)
1950 1.Beg.Aiguille Grandes Charmoz-La Brioche-Ostsporn,V-/A0,350 HM,2779m,
(Montblancgebiet)
1952 1.Beg.Grand Dru-Südpfeiler „Bastien-Contamine“,V-VI/A0,700 HM,3754m, (Montblancgebiet)
1953 Überschr.Aiguille Noire de Peuterey Nord-Süd,3772m, (Montblancgebiet)
1954 1.Beg.Aiguille du Moine-Direkte Ostwand „Labrunie-Contamine Führe“,V+/A0,400 HM,
3412m, (Montblancgebiet)
1955 1.Beg.Petites Jorasses-Westwand „Contamine-Führe“,VI-/A2,750 HM,3649m,
(Montblancgebiet)
1956 Best.Muztagh,7273 m, (Pakistan)
1957 1.Beg.Aiguille du Midi-Südwand „Contamineführe“,VIII-/A1,200 HM,3842m, (Montblancgebiet)
1957 1.Beg.Aigulle du Midi-Ostsüdostpfeiler„Contamineführe“,V+/A2,200 HM,3842m,
(Montblancgebiet)
1957 1.Beg.Aiguille du Peigne-Gendarm „Vaucher-Contamine-Führe“,VI+/A0,600 HM,3068m,
(Montblancgebiet)
1957 1.Beg.Aiguille du Triolet-Direkte Nordwand,3870m, (Montblancgebiet)
1959 1.Beg.Montblanc du Tacul-Pointe Lachenal-Südsüdostwand „Contamine”,V+/A1,250 HM,3613m,
(Montblancgebiet)
1959 1.Beg.Pointe Adolphe Rey „Contamine-Route“,V,3536m, (Montblancgebiet)
1962 1.Beg.Aiguille Verte-Nordostwand „Contamine-Führe”,V,50°,1050 HM,4121m, (Montblancgebiet)
1962 1.Beg.Montblanc du Tacul-Nordostwand „Facette“,50°,400 HM,4248m, (Montblancgebiet)
1962 1.Beg.Montblanc du Tacul-Nordwand-Felsdreieck „Contamine-Négri“,WI 2,bis70°,800HM,4248m,
(Montblancgebiet)
1963 1.Beg.Montblanc du Tacul-Nordwand-Felsdreieck „Contamine-Mazeaud“,IV,bis70°,800HM,4248m,
(Montblancgebiet)
1966 2.Skibefahrung Montblanc-Nordflanke,4807m, (Montblancgebiet)
1968 1.Beg.Montblanc du Tacul-Nordw. „Contamine-Grisolle-Führe“,bis 65°,400 HM,4248m,
(Montblancgebiet)
1.Beg.Grandes Jorasses-Ostwand „Contamine-Führe“,VI/A2,4208m, (Montblancgebiet)

Gerd Schauer, Isny



Geboren am:
24.08.1919
Gestorben am:
03.1985