Geddes Michael George

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Biografie:
Michael George Geddes 1951-1985
I met Mike at University in 1970. We had both arrived in Cambridge from places well to the north and we both spent most of our university careers trying to hitch back to our particular brands of civilisation. He was an extraordinary enthusiast for the Scottish hills in all their forms and by the age of 17 had ascended all the Munroes and tops over 3,OOOft. This experience he readily translated into ascents of the hardest snow and ice routes. He had a profound influence on my climbing, introducing me to the perverse and secret delights of the Scottish Winter Experience. His good judgement and impeccable route finding left a lasting impression on all who climbed with him.
In long weekends we hitched from Cambridge to Fort William, making second ascents, like the much feared Orion Direct. We saw through the myths a bit faster than many around us. Mike knew all of the background and carefully made plans of action while I provided added enthusiasm and a youthful long neck. We usually led through but he was the senior partner. He climbed with many other people as well, of course, completing routes like the first ascent of the modern form of Hadrian's Wall (also sometimes known at the time as Point Two Five).
He went on to climb in the Alps, completing several first British ascents, like the Zapelli-Bertone on Mont Maudit or the first winter ascent of the Rebuffat route on the Pointe du Domino. We nearly made a winter ascent of the Croz Spur in the mid seventies but were foiled by bad weather. He became a member of the ACG and went on to climb in Patagonia and Peru.
Living away from Scotland seemed to unsettle him and he returned to live in Fort William and get married to Helen, while working at the pulp mill. Here he climbed extensively with Con Higgens adding a fine series of first ascents like Galactic Hitchhiker on Ben Nevis. I occasionally joined forces for some memorable ascents, like the first ascent of Route 2 on Cam Dearg buttress. He was happy here engrossed in the culture and traditions of the Scottish hills. Perhaps my most memorable single moment was when after an 11 am start on Route 2, for traditional reasons, we were caught by darkness at the end of the big traverse. A wind got up and spindrift was pouring down the uncomfortably steep looking pitch above. It was my lead but Mike asked if he could do the pitch. I agreed with a sense of relief. He smiled and said 'Let's just have a wee brew before starting.' Where-upon he delved into the depths of his well worn Tiso rucksack and produced an unexpected flask of coffee. He sipped the brew eyeing the snow covered rock above with quiet pleasure.
He died of cancer at age 34. Had he lived he would have undoubtedly carried on to become the leading authority on Scottish winter climbing.
Alan Rouse
Quelle: Alpine Journal Volume 91, 1986, Seite 286


Geboren am:
1951
Gestorben am:
1985