Czyzewski Mikolaj

(Bearbeiten)

Biografie:
Pole

Teilnehmer an der ´polnisch-kanadisch.-australischen Nachmonsunexpedition 1986 unter der Leitung von E. Chrobak (16 Teilnehmer) zum Dhaulagiri I. Es war geplant über die Südwand und den Westgrat (neue Route) aufzusteigen. das Unternehmen mußte jedoch in 7500m wegen starker Höhenstürme abgebrochen werden.
Teilnehmer an der polnischen Lang-Himal Expedition 1987/88 unter der Leitung von Wojciech Maslowski . Am 3. Jänner 1988 gelang die Besteigung des Langtang-Lirung (7234m) über die Südostwand mit den Landsleuten K. Kiszka und Adam Potoczek. Es war dies die erste Winterbesteigung des Gipfels.
Quelle: Archiv Proksch (Österr. Alpenklub)

Dhaulagiri South Face Attempt. Our 16-member team had 12 Poles, two Canadians and a Pole from both France and Australia. Our objective was the 4000-meter-high south face of Dhaulagiri. We established Base Camp at 3800 meters on September 16 and Advance Base at 4300 meters three days later. On September 21, Camp I was set on the lower part of the prominent buttress just to the left of the center of the face. The first part of the buttress forms a 1200-meter-high rock wall. We placed Camp II on its upper part at 5800 meters on October 4. The rock was of continuous difficulty up to UIAA Grade VI-. Part of it was so friable that a bolt hole could be made with a few blows. Above the rock wall the route ascended a 60° to 70° ice rib with passages of 85°. Camps III and IV were set up at 6100 and 7100 meters on October 20 and 26. We fixed 3200 meters of rope. The upper part of the buttress, climbed by Maciej Pawlikowski and me, had mixed pitches of UIAA V. Camp V at 7500 meters was established on October 30 by Maciej Berbeka and Mikolaj Czyzewski. The wind tore their tent apart that night. The next morning Berbeka climbed alone over easy snow to reach the southwest ridge, joining the Japanese route of 1978. Although the way to the summit was now without difficulties, the weather was bad and time had run out. We gave up and descended the same route. Base Camp was cleared on November 2.
Eugeniusz Chrobak, Klub Wysokogórski Kraków, Poland
Quelle: American Alpine Journal 1987, Volume 29, Issue 61, Seite 255

Langtang Lirung Winter Ascent, 1988. A 12-man Polish expedition led by Wojciech Maslowski made a winter ascent of Langtang Lirung by the southeast ridge when on January 3, 1988 Kazimierz Kiszka, Adam Potoczek and Mikolaj Czyzewski reached the summit for the eighth ascent of the peak.
Elizabeth Hawley
Quelle: American Alpine Journal 1988, Volume 30, Issue 62, Seite 212