Kempson Edwin Garnett Hone

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Biografie:
Edwin Garnett Hone Kempson 1902-1987
After becoming a Wrangler in the Mathematical Tripos and taking up mountaineering whilst at Cambridge, G, as he was known to all at Marlborough College, returned to serve the College which he loved so much, and remained there for the rest of his life. He became an Assistant Master, then Housemaster and in the interregnum, in 1961, between Masters Garnett and Dancy (Garnett was a distant relation), he was Acting Master. In addition, he was involved in the affairs of the town both as a Borough Councillor and Mayor in 1946, and he was also an extremely active member and officer in the Wiltshire Archaeological and Natural History Society, lecturing often about the history of the town. During his period as Mayor he discovered an important collection of 17th century books which became known as the Vicar's Library. This was housed in the College for many years where he researched and catalogued it with loving care, until finally the collection was handed over to the Bodleian. Later he was Archivist of the College, a post that he relinquished in 1986.
For many years after returning to Marlborough from Cambridge he took boys climbing during the holidays in North Wales, the Lake District, Skye and the Scottish Highlands. In the summer he often visited the Alps with small groups, going to the Dauphine, Chamonix, Val d'Isere and other regions, whilst in winter he did a great deal of ski-touring. The first issue, in 1934, of the Mountaineering Club Journal of which he was Editor had a suitable introduction by Geoffrey Winthrop Young, himself an old Marlburian, who used to play host at dinner for parties of schoolboys led by G at Pen-y-Pass.
G went to Everest on the 1935 Reconnaissance, when with Tilman and Warren he surveyed part of the southern portion of the Nyonno Ri Range. Whilst attempting to reach the North Col his party came across the body of Maurice Wilson on its lower slopes, and later with Warren and Shipton he reached the Col itself. The reconnaissance party then split up and with Warren and Spender, the surveyor, G surveyed the country between the E Rongbuk glacier and Doya La. Whilst doing so they climbed 'Kellas' peak, followed by one peak of 6880m and two over 64oom, from which photographs were taken to supplement the survey. Returning to Rongbuk, Warren and G took a theodolite to the summit of two further peaks over 67oom, and then climbed Kharta Changri, 7030m. G then had to return home for the autumn term. However, he had acclimatized well and, had the weather been reasonable in 1936, he would have been a strong contender for the summit party. But this expedition was storm-wracked and snow-bound, and little was achieved. However in the book of these two expeditions, Everest, the Unfinished Adventure, he contributed a characteristic and unusual appendix on the Tibetan name for Everest, which gave scope to his wide interests and meticulous scholarship. Luckily, too, and characteristically, he found time and energy on this expedition to visit the Lho La to look into Nepal, and he was able to photograph the Western Cwm and the Everest lee-fall. Many years later, in 1951, whilst searching for suitable photographs to convince the sceptics that there was a possible route up Everest from Nepal, I remembered reading about this, wrote to him and back came the photograph, a vital link in the chain of evidence.
He was a pleasant and stimulating companion, and with quick bird-like movements he seemed to flit easily from rock to rock and from tussock to tussock, and his mind moved as phenomenally fast as did his feet. He was still going and interested when those around him almost ceased to move or think from sheer exhaustion. A gentle man with many and diverse interests, music, bird-watching, natural history, he was slow to anger and always cheerful with a puckish humour.
G will be remembered as an outstanding and kind schoolmaster who never put himself forward when he could foster another. He was a man with an unassuming manner and penetrating mind that thought quickly, lucidly and thoroughly around all problems, and a strong character greatly respected by all at the College as one who expected good behaviour and therefore discipline to come from respect for the individual.
For mountaineers he will be remembered as the 'Father' of a group of Marlborough mountaineers (Kempson 1935, 1936, Wigram 1935,1936, Ward 1951,1953, Hunt 1953, Wylie 1953) who were much concerned with the fight for and the first ascent of Everest. I consider myself very fortunate to have had the benefit of his knowledge and enthusiasm for mountaineering in those impressionable schooldays.
He is survived by his wife and three children, two daughters and a son.
Michael Ward
Quelle: Alpine Journal Volume 93, 1988-89, Seite 327-328


Geboren am:
1902
Gestorben am:
1987