Dangar Dudley Frederick Oliphant

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Biografie:
Mitglied des Österreichischen Alpkenklubs Nr. 178
Quelle: Archiv Proksch (Österr. Alpenklub)

Dudley Frederick Oliphant Dangar (1902-1992)
Fred Dangar was born at Wimbledon on 19 September 1902. He was educated at Rugby School and at Jesus College Cambridge. Before he was twenty, whilst still living with his parents at Frensham House in Surrey, his lifelong interest in the Alps began with a visit in the summer of 1922 to the area around Chamonix and Finhaut. This was the first of over 30 visits extending into the early 1960s to the mountains of Switzerland France and Austria. He was initiated into alpine climbing by C H Wybergh, a member of the AC, and a former schoolmaster at his preparatory school, Lambrook Berks, with whom each year between 1923-1927 he climbed in the Bernese Oberland, Arolla and the French and Austrian Alps. He was elected to the Club in 1931 having been proposed by Claude Elliott and seconded by C H Wybergh. Fred climbed in the then traditional way with a guide, enjoying the contentment of the amateur on the uncrowded mountains of that period without being driven by any ambition to achieve feats of daring. His climbs between 1929-1936 included the Grand Combin, Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, Zinal Rothorn, Aguilles Rouges d'Arolla, Petite Dent de Vesivi, Gspaltenhorn and Wetterhorn, as well as ascents in the Pyrenees and in the Gross Glockner group. He developed a special interest in Switzerland, getting to know practically every corner of the country, and acquiring during the course of numerous later journeys accompanied by his wife an amazing depth of knowledge about the valleys and the people of the upper mountain regions.
During the Second World War, having failed to pass his medical test for active service, he served on the general staff reaching the rank of captain and was posted at Dorchester where he acted as quartermaster.
Fred Dangar settled in Devon in 1946 and not long after he became more closely associated with the Club's activities. His major contribution to the AC was as Honorary Assistant Editor, together with Tom Blakeney, of the Alpine Journal from 1953-1974. His capacity for meticulous research and accuracy for detail, as well as his scholastic knowledge of alpine history and literature, ideally suited him for work in which he excelled and which he enjoyed. His many contributions to the A] include vivid sketches of several of the earliest Alpine ascents, details from the Fuhrerbuchs of famous guides, and (with Tom Blakeney) a defence of Whymper's role on the Matterhorn ascent in 1865. In addition, unspoilt areas such as Belalp and Arolla, for which he had a special affection, were made the subject of delightful articles. Besides this he was responsible for the annual Alpine Notes section, and for the production of two consolidated indexes for the AJ covering the years 1927-1968 (Vols 39-73). His election to Honorary Membership in 1969 was a recognition of the value of his work. He was a member of the Swiss and Austrian Alpine Clubs and cultivated friendships with leading international climbers, his knowledge of French and German facilitating easier personal contact with many.
Apart from his archives on the European alps, Fred Dangar built up a valuable series of classified records dealing with the greater ranges. In 1960 after the first 21 volumes of the Himalayan Journal had appeared the H.C. felt that the time was ripe for preparation of an index. I approached Fred hesitatingly about whether he would agree to take on this additional task and was delighted when he agreed to do so. He subsequently produced two consolidated indexes for the Himalayan Journal covering the years 1929-1978, (Vols 1-35) and he was elected to Hsmorary Membership of the Himalayan
Club in 1964.
I have reason to be personally grateful to him. When Fred and his wife Barbara attended the Swiss Alpine Club Centenary celebrations in 1963 they were seated at the luncheon table opposite the young daughter and son of the then president of the SAC Basel Section, and subsequently became good friends of the family. I met that daughter a few years later at their house in Dittisham and we were married not long after.
Fred Dangar was essentially to use a now unfashionable word a gentleman of the type that has become increasingly rare today, with personal qualities that combined modesty, humility, and a strong sense of family and moral values. He was utterly reliable in whatever he undertook, and would never accept anything second-rate from himself or from others. When we last met four months before he died I found that he had lost none of the fervour with which he enjoyed discussing mountain events and people, about which he retained an amazing memory.
His marriage in 1932 to Barbara (nee Massie) resulted in a perfect partnership and long years of happiness. In September 1992 Fred would have celebrated his 90th birthday and in November of the same year he and Barbara would have celebrated their diamond wedding. To Barbara, their son Richard and daughter Rosemary, and to their grandchildren and two great grandchildren we offer our deepest sympathy.
Trevor Braham
Quelle: Alpine Journal Vol. 98, 1993, Seite 323-324


Geboren am:
19.09.1902
Gestorben am:
1992