Deuber Louis

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Biografie:
Schweiz
Teilnehmer an der schweizerisch-österreichischen Himalaya-Expedition 1984 unter der Leitung von Harald Navé. es gelang die 5. Besteigung der Chogolisa (7650m) durch die Teilnehmer Harald Navé, Hans und Alice Zebrowski, Luis Deuber und Richard Franzl am 10. Juni 1984. Alice Zebrowski war die erste Frau auf der Chogolisa.
Besteigung des Broad Peak mit Richard Franzl (Österreich) am 24. Juni 1984.

Begehung der Südwand des Nevado Sarapo (6143m) in der Cordillera Huayhuash vom 10. bis 12. Juli 1986. Vermutlich 2. Begehung der mehr als 1000 Meter hohen Eiswand mit A. Callupe (Peru), R. Franzl (Österreich), C. C. Lukei (Schweiz) und Hans Zebrowski (Schweiz).

Teilnehmer an der schweizerischen Khumbu-Himal Expedition 1987 unter der Leitung von Norbert Joos zur Cho Oyu (8201m) Südostwand. Dabei erreichte er eine Höhe von ca. 7100m am 1. Oktober 1987 mit Norbert Joos und P. Aliz. Die Umkehr erfolgte wegen hüfthohem Neuschnee und großer Lawinengefahr.
Quelle: Archiv Proksch, Österreichischer Alpenklub

Rasac, Middle Buttress of West Face, and Yerupajá, West Face Direct.
From June 23 to 26 Louis Deuber, my wife Alice and I climbed the west face of Rasac. From Rasaccocha we climbed east for four rope-lengths over polished cliffs to a small lake at the edge of the glacier, where we bivouacked at 16,000 feet. We ascended a not very steep glacial terrace to the foot of the middle buttress at 17,725 feet, then climbed the left side of the buttress to bivouac in the upper third. We reached the summit ridge 800 feet north of the highest point. This was an objectively safe, demanding and interesting ice climb with some pitches up to 60°. [The buttress was climbed by two Frenchmen and a German in 1980, though they approached the buttress differently, traversing from the col west of Rasac Oeste. See A.A.J., 1981, page 226.?Editor.] From July 3 to 7 Deuber, Kurt Graf, Peruvian Alberto Callupe and I climbed alpine-style the direct west face of Yerupajá, emerging right on the summit. We bivouacked at 19,700 and 21,000 feet and a rope-length below the summit. We bivouacked again at 21,000 feet during the descent. Callupe, who is one of his country?s best climbers, is the first Peruvian to climb the west face direct (and probably the first Peruvian to reach the summit).
Hans Zebrowski, Schweizer Alpen Club
Quelle: American Alpine Journal 1984

Chogolisa from the Northwest and Broad Peak.
Our group, Louis Deuber, Swiss, Richard Franzl and Harald Navé, Austrians, and my wife Alice Zebrowski and I, Germans, left Rawalpindi on May 16 and proceeded to Concordia on the Baltoro Glacier. For our first objective, Chogolisa, we set up Base Camp on the true left bank of the Vigne Glacier at 4900 meters on May 31. On June 8, after acclimatization ski trips, we ascended the Vigne to its head on the west of Chogolisa, where we set up Camp I at 5500 meters. On the east side of the cirque, an 800-meter (2600-foot) ice slope rises to a giant glacial plateau, which lies under the northern side of the summit trapezoid. Brosig and the Germans, who first climbed this route in 1983 (A.A.J., 1984, page 289), climbed a rock spur. We could climb a snow gully left of the spur because of better conditions; in fact we skied all but the upper 100 meters. Camp II was on the plateau at 6300 meters. From this camp the whole team reached the summit (7654 meters, 25,112 feet) on June 10, my wife making the first female ascent. The 1300-meter (4250-foot) northwest summit slope was not difficult. We could ski from the summit ridge to Base Camp except for a few meters. We then moved to the west side of Broad Peak. From June 23 to July 16 Deuber, Franzl and I climbed Broad Peak by the normal route. Deuber and Franzl got to the summit on June 26 and I on July 13. During a bivouac on the summit ridge, I froze toes, necessitating a helicopter evacuation from Base Camp to Skardu. Contrary to previous experiences, the Pakistani military is now prepared to land at the 4900-meter Broad Peak Base Camp and did land and take off without problems. However, when the request for the helicopter is made, the exact spot and height must be given and assurance that the landing site is suitable. There remains the problem of delay. In our case it was eight days from the time the people left to summon help. These took four days to Skardu. The other four days were needed to get the bureaucracy into motion.
Hans Zebrowski, Germany
Quelle: American Alpine Journal 1985

Sarapo Southwest Face.
Our expedition consisted of Peruvian Alberto Callupe, Swiss Louis Deuber, Austrian Richard Franzl, German Hans Zebrowski and me. After trekking in the region, we established our Base Camp below Sarapo Qocha. Our objective was Sarapo?s southwest face. We placed a camp in the glacial basin below the face at 5100 meters. The approach from Base Camp was on the right side of the icefall where we were least endangered by falling ice. We placed 100 meters of rope. We set out on the face on July 20 and got to the summit on the morning of July 22 after two bivouacs and 20 hours of climbing. The face averaged between 55° and 60° with the steepest pitch at 80°. We believe this to be the second ascent of the face, which was first climbed by Casimiro Ferrari and other Italians in 1979.
Cestimír Luke?, Czech living in Switzerland
Quelle: American Alpine Journal 1987

Swiss Cho Oyu Attempt.
Leader Norbert Joos, Peter Alig and Louis Deuber were defeated by dangerous snow conditions on this attempt on Cho Oyu?s southeast face. They reached 7600 meters on September 20 but were forced to retreat. They had had four bivouacs in their alpine-style attempt. On October 1, they got only to 7100 meters. Waist-deep powder snow and fierce winds meant great avalanche danger.
Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley
Quelle: American Alpine Journal 1988

Makalu Attempt.
Our expedition consisted of Germans Michael Dacher, Ralf Dujmovits, Richard Koller, my wife Gaby and me as leader and Swiss Norbert Joos, Luis Deuber, Peter Weber and Fredy Graf. We were disappointed with our liaison officer, who did not even go to Base Camp with us and left the expedition early. After flying to Tumlingtar, we took eleven days to Base Camp at 5250 meters, which we reached on April 13. The next day, Koller had to leave with altitude problems and infected kidneys. Camps I, II and III were set up on April 16, 22 and 30 at 6050, 6800 and 7400 meters, the latter on Makalu Col. On May 6 the whole team set out on the first summit attempt and climbed to Camp II. The next day Deuber and Joos gave up because of the cold, but the rest of us ascended to Camp III with Sherpas Ang Chopal and Pemba. On May 8 we went to Camp IV at 7800 meters and the Sherpas descended to Camp III. That night the wind rose to hurricane force and the Swiss tent was destroyed. We all went back down to Base Camp with the greatest difficulty and effort. The Swiss left the expedition because of the bad weather the next day. We could not climb again until May 15. In their attempt to reach Camp II, Dacher and Dujmovits had to give up because of illness. On the 16th, my wife and I had to abandon our attempt to get to Camp III because of new snow and high winds. We decided to end the expedition.
Sigi Hupfauer, Mountain Guide, Deutscher Alpenverein
Quelle: American Alpine Journal 1989

Everest Attempt.
Our members were German Michel Dacher, Frenchwoman Chantal Mauduit, Swiss Pierino Giuliani, Louis Deuber, Hans Kessler and I as leader. We joined a number of other expeditions at Base Camp on April 8. On April 11, we climbed the Khumbu Icefall to leave a depot at the site of Camp I at 6500 meters. On the 14th, we occupied Camp I but high winds and cold drove us back. On April 18, Kessler and I established Camp II at 7200 meters, while the others went to Camp I. We were aided by the ropes fixed by the Sherpa expedition on the steep, icy Lhotse Face. Again wind and cold drove us back to Base Camp. Again on April 24, Kessler and I spent the night at Camp II, but wind, cold and stomach troubles forced us back. On May 5, Kessler and I set out again and reached the South Col the next afternoon. Our companions climbed to Camp II. With extreme temperatures and wind, we saw that we had no chance and luckily were able to descend to Base Camp. We are convinced that the only way to climb Everest is by ?fair means,? namely without supplementary oxygen, which essentially degrades the peak to a 6000er. The 250 or 300 discarded oxygen bottles litter the South Col. After five more fruitless days at Base Camp, we wanted to climb back up the icefall to retrieve our gear, but conditions were too unfavorable. After our departure on May 15, the Sherpas with an American expedition evacuated our material.
Norbert Joos, Schweizer Alpen Club
Quelle: American Alpine Journal 1992