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Yerupajá Sur, South Face; Rondoy, West Face; Rasac and Ancocancha. Rab Carrington and I left Chiquián in late May for Base Camp at Jahuakocha. After several days of acclimatizing, we walked up the Quebrada Huacrish and bivouacked below Ancocancha Norte (18,528 feet). On June 3 we climbed this by the arête that drops to the Quebrada Huacrish on the north-northwest side. Our prominent rib lies well left of the line of the Argentines in 1964. On June 7 we approached the unclimbed south face of Rasac (19,817 feet) via Rasackocha and the next day started up a central line. The first day gave us eight pitches of very technical difficult climbing. We bivouacked a third of the way up the face. The second day was easier ice and snow climbing with a few difficult pitches at the end, when the snow turned to very loose powder. That night the weather turned bad with snow showers and spindrift. The third day, after four or five pitches, we reached the top and descended onto the Yerupajâ Glacier and so back to Base Camp.

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