Chrobak Eugeniusz

(Bearbeiten)

Biografie:
geboren in Bielska-Biala (Polen)

1956 -Versuch am K2 (8611m) auf einer neuen Route und dabei 8400m erreicht.
1965 - Erste Winterbegehung der Aiguille Verte Nordwand "Contamine Route"
1969 - Erste Begehung der Südwestwand der Grand Pilier d'Angla
1970 - Erste Begehung der Grandes Jorasses - Pointe Helene Nordwand
Erstbesteigungen in den Anden
1978 - Erste Ersteigung des Kangchendzönga Südgipfels.

Expeditionsleiter der Polnisch Kanadisch Australischen Expedition 1986 in den Dhaulagiri Himal. Versuch einer neuen Route in der Südwand und am Westgrat des Dhaulagiri I (8167m). Am 1. November 1986 erreichten die Teilnehmer M. Berbeka und M. Czyzewski eine Höhe von 7500 Meter. Dann Abbruch wegen starker Höhenstürme.
Quelle: Archiv Proksch (Österr. Alpenklub)

Chrobak Eugeniusz
(* 1. 6. 1939 Bielsko-Biala), Chemie-Ingenieur. Neue Routen in den Alpen (grand Pilier d’Angle), im Kaukasus (Mischirgi über die „Balalaika“), in den Anden (Huandoy-Oeste-Südpfeiler). 1975 große Gratüberschreitungen im Hindukusch. Am K2 (8611 m) drang er 1976 auf einer neuen Route bis 8400 Meter vor, 1978 Erstbesteigung des Kangchenjunga South (8500m)
Quelle: Der Bergsteiger 1982, Heft 4, Seite 9

Dhaulagiri South Face Attempt. Our 16-member team had 12 Poles, two Canadians and a Pole from both France and Australia. Our objective was the 4000-meter-high south face of Dhaulagiri. We established Base Camp at 3800 meters on September 16 and Advance Base at 4300 meters three days later. On September 21, Camp I was set on the lower part of the prominent buttress just to the left of the center of the face. The first part of the buttress forms a 1200-meter-high rock wall. We placed Camp II on its upper part at 5800 meters on October 4. The rock was of continuous difficulty up to UIAA Grade VI-. Part of it was so friable that a bolt hole could be made with a few blows. Above the rock wall the route ascended a 60° to 70° ice rib with passages of 85°. Camps III and IV were set up at 6100 and 7100 meters on October 20 and 26. We fixed 3200 meters of rope. The upper part of the buttress, climbed by Maciej Pawlikowski and me, had mixed pitches of UIAA V. Camp V at 7500 meters was established on October 30 by Maciej Berbeka and Mikolaj Czyzewski. The wind tore their tent apart that night. The next morning Berbeka climbed alone over easy snow to reach the southwest ridge, joining the Japanese route of 1978. Although the way to the summit was now without difficulties, the weather was bad and time had run out. We gave up and descended the same route. Base Camp was cleared on November 2.
Eugeniusz Chrobak, Klub Wysokogórski Kraków, Poland
Quelle: American Alpine Journal Volume 29, 1987, Seite 255

1962 1.Überschr.Kazalnica Mieguszowiecka Pillar, (Hohe Tatra)
1962 1.Beg.Kazalnica Mieguszowiecka-Pfeiler "Momatiukowa",VI/A3,2159m, (Tatra,Polen)
1963 1.Winterbeg.Kazalnica "Momatiuk-Route", (Tatra)
1963 6.Beg.Große Zinne-Nordwand "Superdiretissima,Sachsenweg",2999m, (Sextener Dolomiten)
1964 1.Beg.Koschtan-Tau-Nordwestrippe, (Kaukasus)
1964 1.Beg.Mischirgi-Ostgipfel "Balalaika-Führe", (Kaukasus)
1965 1.Winterbeg.Aiguille Verte-Nordostwand "Contamine-Führe",V,50°,
1050 HM,4121m, (Montblancgebiet)
1967 Best.Pik Lenin,7134m, (Pamir)
1969 1.Beg.Grand Pilier d'Angle-Südwestwand, (Montblancgebiet)
1969 1.Beg.Grand Pilier d'Angle-Südostwand "Chrobak-Führe",
800 HM,4243m, (Montblancgebiet)
1970 1.Beg.Grandes Jorasses-Pointe Hélène-Nordwand "Voie Polonaise",WI 5,M 5+,bis 85°,900 KM,
4045m, (Montblancgebiet)
1971 Teinehmer Kunyang Chhrish (Khiangyang Kish)-Expedition,7852m, (Karakorum,Pakistan)
1975 Große Gratüberschreitungen im Hindukusch
1976 1.Beg.Vers.K2 "Chrobak-Route" bis 8400m,8611 m, (Karakorum,Pakistan)
1978 1.Best.Kangchendzönga-Südgipfel,8476m, (Himalaya,Nepal/Indien)
1986 Expeditionsleiter der Polnisch Kanadisch Australischen Expedition Dhaulagiri Himal.
1986 Beg.Vers.Dhaulagiri I-Südwand und Westgrat bis 7500m,8167m, (Himalaya,Nepal)
1986 Beg.Mischirgi "Balalaika", (Kaukasus)
1986 1.Beg.Huandoy-Ost-Südpfeiler,6395m, (Anden)
1989 Best.Mount Everest-Westgrat/Nordwand,8848m, (Himalaya)
Gerd Schauer, Isny im Allgäu

Geboren am:
01.06.1939
Gestorben am:
28.05.1989