Devies Lucien

(Bearbeiten)

Biografie:
* in Paris (Frankreich), + in Sallanches (Frankreich)
Lucien Devies gehörte in den dreisiger Jahren zu den profiliertesten Bergsteigern Frankreichs. Ihm glückten große Unternehmungen in den Alpen. Auch große Erstbegehungen hat Lucien Devies durchgeführt. Bemerkenswert war seine Erstbegehungen des Nordwestpfeilers von Ailefroide-West, Monte-Rosa-Nordostwand, L'Olan-Nordwestwand,Pic Gaspard-Südostgrat und Ailefroide-Nordwestwand.
1934, als er 24 Jahre alt war, trat er dem französischen Himalaya Komitee bei, das für die Organisation der französischen Expedition von 1936 zum Hidden Peak verantwortlich war. Er initiierte und förderte zahlreiche und erfolgreiche Expeditionen in den Himalaya,nach Alaska und in die Anden. Nach dem Krieg war er Vorsitzender der High Mountain Group (1948-1951), des French Alpine Club (1948-1951, erneut 1957-1963 und 1966-1970) Präsident des Club Alpin Francois, (1948-1973) und des Himalaya-Komitee.
Er hat sich als Führerautor über die Montblancgruppe und die Dauphinéalpen hervorgetan.
Von 1955 bis 1974 war er Redaktionsleiter der Fachzeitschrift La Montagne et Alpinisme.
Bis 1959 gelangen ihm noch einige Bergtouren mit Seilbegleiter Jacques Lagarde und Giusto Gervasutti.
Lucien Devies stirbt weiter 22. September 1980 bei Sallanches.
Gerd Schauer, Isny im Allgäu

Als Gast bei Emilio Comici hat er die neue Seiltechnik nach Frankreich gebracht. Anfangs der Dreißiger-Jahre war er mit Comici viel in den Dolomiten unterwegs.
In den Westalpen mit Gervasutti unterwegs.
Erste Begehung der Nordwestwand der L'Olan (3563m) am 23. und 24. August 1934 mit G. Gervasutti;
Erste Begehung der Nordwestwand der Ailefroide Occidentale (3954m) am 23. und 24.Juli 1936 mit G. Gervasutti.
Hielt die Grabrede bei der Beerdigung von Lionel Terray in Chamonix 1965.

Ehrung von Lucien Devies
Lucien Devis der um die neue französische Himalaya-Expedition verdiente Präsident des C.A.F. und des Groupe de haute Montagne, der bekannte Führerlose und Verfasser hochtouristischer Führerwerke ist Ehrenmitglied des Club Alpin Belgique geworden.
Quelle: Der Bergkamerad 1950 6. Mai, Heft 31, Seite 494

Lucien Devies
Ist auf der Hauptversammlung des Club Alpin Francais und des Groupe de haute Montagne, die beide im Frühjahr 1950 stattfanden, erneut zum Präsidenten dieser beiden französischen Bergsteigervereinigungen wiedergewählt worden.
Quelle: Der Bergkamerad 1950 26. August, Heft 47, Seite 777

Quelle: La Montagne 1979/890, Seite 400 f
Quelle: Alpinismus Jahrgang 19, 1981, Heft 3, Seite 68
Quelle: Bollettino del Club Alpino Italiano 1981

Lucien Devies
In Heft 5/80 der Mitteilungen gratulierten wir Herrn Lucien Devies zu seinem 70. Geburtstag. Kurz nach Erscheinen des Heftes erfuhren wir von seinem plötzlichen Tod in einem Krankenhaus in Sallanches/Haute Savoie. Mit Lucien Devies verliert der französische Alpinismus einen seiner herausragendsten Repräsentanten: dreimal war er Präsident des Club Alpin Francais, 1948, 1957 und 1970, außerdem Präsident der Fedération Francaise de la Montagne von 1948 bis 1973, ferner hat er das „Comité Himalaya geleitet, das alle die großen französischen Expeditionen auf die höchsten Berge der Erde organisierte. Über seine großen bergsteigerischen Leistungen (u. a. Erstbegehung der Monte Rosa-NO-Wand 1931) sowie seine Verdienste als Führer-Autor (Dauphiné- und Montblanc-Führerwerke) haben wir in der erwähnten Würdigung zu seinem 70. Geburtstag ausführlicher berichtet.
Quelle: DAV Mitteilungen 1981, Heft 1, Seite 51

Lucien Devies (1910-1980)
With the death of Lucien Oevies the Alpine Club has lost a distinguished Honorary Member and the French mountain world a man who was for 40 years its mainspring-president at once time or another of the CAF, the FFM and the GHM. He visited us rarely, but was always welcome and he contributed much, often as was his habit behind the scenes, to the reestablishment of cordial Anglo/French mountaineering relations after the war. He was a great
benefactor of the Alpine Club Library, donating many volumes. His contribution to the Vallot guides was immense. His drive in supporting French expeditions to the Himalayas unsurpassed. Severe in his judgements, he was not easy to know, but his friendship once gained he was the staunchest of allies with a great gift of humour and immense patience.
Douglas Busk
Quelle: Alpine Journal Volume 86, 1981, Seite 264

Lucien Devies (1910-1980)
Lucien Devies is dead. It is an irreparable loss for all alpinism. Others have spoken of the work he carried out in our assemblies, in the clubs and the federations to which he gave so much help; tasks which he carried out with an exemplary conscience. It is to him that French alpinism owes the eminent place that it occupies in the great ranges of the world and throughout the Himalaya. Here I will talk only of his career as an alpinist.
It was the classic beginning at the end of the 20s, climbing with professionals, but, very soon during the 30s our friend was limiting himself solely to guideless climbs. He looked around for a companion who would at the same time be a friend holding similar views on the sport. From the beginning, with Jacques Lagarde, he climbed the great classic aretes of the Mont Blanc massif and the Valais. Lagarde, who, with Jacques de Lepiney, was one of the fathers of guideless French alpinism, was his first companion. With him Lucien climbed the Voie des Francais, the hardest route on the E face 0' Monte Rosa (1931). In the Zermatt region also he climbed a direct route on a face that had remained untouched at that time in such a popular area-the N face of the Grand Cornier.
Unfortunately Lagarde was out of action after the mid-30s, but Lucien met Giusto Gervasutti while on holiday in the Dolomites. They became friends and, as he himself said in the obituary he wrote for his friend: 'Je crois que nous formions une bonne cordee'. But war and sickness intervened and then when Giusto fell on Mont Blanc du Tacul it seemed as if this death had shattered the alpine career of our friend. Two more exceptional climbs must be mentioned in the Oisans: the N face of the Olan (1934) and the W face direct of the Ailefroide Occidentale (1936). These 2 great firsts, with the E face of Monte Rosa, have stood the test of time and remain 'tres grandes courses'.
Without actually using modern techniques himself, Lucien Devies was interested in the use of pitons and the grading of climbs. He was a complete climber, equally at home on ice or rock. Everyone who came to know him recognized his intelligence, integrity and uprightness. I was privileged to know him-he remains imperishable in my memory.
'C'etait un ami droit et incorruptible, fidele dans ses affections, sincere de Coeur et d'esprit'.
Alain de Chatellus
Alain de Chatellus has voiced the sentiments all of us have held for more than half a century. I will not add any further details of the early years of Lucien Devies.
If his Alpine career serves to illustrate how alpinists were 'coming out' in the 30s,
his progress after that was far from ordinary. The list of his grandes courses passed 110, with a dozen before he was 18. At 20 he climbed, among many others, the Mer de Glace face of the Grépon, and at 21 the Macugnaga face of Monte Rosa. He followed this with the traverse of the Aiguilles du Diable, Mont Blanc -by the Innominata and then by the Sentinelle Rouge, the S arete of the Peuterey, the Cordier Couloir of the Aiguille Verte, the N face of the Drus, the SSE arete of Pic Gaspard.
This brief list illustrates the career which formed the background to his activities which made him a supporting pillar of French alpinism, reflected all over the world, partly through the UIAA. Because of his capacity for work, amongst other qualities, he was chosen for the Presidency of the CAF, the GHM and the FF de la M. He was active in all aspects of conservation in the mountains, in mountain rescue and among the Guides de Montagne. Another subject which he took particularly to heart was that of expeditions to the greater ranges; Hidden Peak in 1933 (at 23!) for instance, and he worked tirelessly in later years to promote the expeditions which
led to so many French victories.
It is a little sad for me, so long at the centre of all these activities, to have to condense my thoughts into a few lines. I only hope they will help to keep alive in the spirit and the heart the memories of him I have known.
Pierre Henry
Quelle: Alpine Journal Volume 87, 1982, Seite 261-262


Geboren am:
12.09.1910
Gestorben am:
22.09.1980