Czok Andrzej

(Bearbeiten)

Biografie:
geboren in Zabrze (Polen)
Am 11. Jänner 1986 beim Abstieg nach gescheitertem Gipfelversuch am Kangchendzönga (586m) vermutlich an einem Lungenödem verstorben.

Teilnehmer an der polnischen Winterexpedition 1984/85 zum Dhaulagiri I (8167m) unter der Leitung von A. Bilczenski. Am 21. Jänner 1985 wurde der Gipfel von J. Kukuczka und Czok Andrzej erreicht. Es war die 2. Winterersteigung und die 1. ohne künstlichen Sauerstoff. Insgesamt handelt es sich um die 26. Besteigung. Für Czok war es der vierte Achttausender.
Quelle: Archiv Proksch (Österr. Alpenklub)

Andrzej Czok war Mitglied des Hochgebirgsklub in Gliwice. Seit 1970 ist er Bergsteiger. Neben der Tatra stieg er auch in den Dolomiten und Westalpen, später Pamir, Anden, Himalaya und Karakorum. Ihm gelang die Besteigung von 4 Achttausender
1973 1.Beg.Mlynarczyku-Ostwand "Czok-Führe",1785m, (Hohe Tatra,Slowakei)
1974 1.Winterbeg.Kurczaba Wielka-Nordwand,2291m, (Hohe Tatra)
1974 Beg.Kiezmarskiego Stit (Kleine Kesmarker Spitze)-Nordwand "Vodopad", (Tatra)
1974 Beg.Aiguille du Fou-Südwand,3501m, (Montblancgebiet)
1974 Beg.Montblanc du Tacul "Gervasutti-Pfeiler",4248m, (Montblancgebiet)
1975 Best.Pik Lenin,7134m, (Transalaigebirge,Pamir)
1975 1.Beg.Zabia Crag Mieguszowiecka, (Hohe Tatra-Hauptkamm)
1975 1.Beg.Zabia Turnia Mieguszowiecka,2236m, (Hohe Tatra-Hauptkamm)
1976 1.Beg.Krywan Schulter,2495m, (Hohe Tatra)
1976 1.Beg.K 2-Nord-Ost Grat bis 8000 m,8611m, (Karakorum,Pakistan)
1977 Winterbeg.Cima Su Alto (Hochemporspitze)-Nordwestkante "Piussi-Führe",VI+/A3,2951m,
(Civetta,Dolomiten)
1978 Winterbeg.Eiger-Nordwand "Heckmair-Route",V,Eis bis 55°,1800 HM,3970 m, (Berner Alpen)
1978 1.Beg.Finsteraarhorn "Polen-Führe",4274m, (Berner Alpen)
1978 Best.Pik Korzhenevskaya (Korzhenevskiy),7105m, (Pamir)
1978 Best.Peak Kommunismus (Ismail Samani Peak),7495m, (Pamir)
1979 4.Best.Lhotse über Westflanke "Normalweg",8516m, (Himalaya,Nepal/Tibet)
1980 1.Beg.Mount Everest-Südwestwand-Südpfeiler ?Kukuczka-Czok-Route?,8846m,
(Himalaya,Tibet/Nepal)
1981 Beg.Nevado Yerupaja-Westwand,6635m, (Anden,Peru)
1981 Beg.Ninashanca-Nordwestwand,5605m, (Anden,Peru)
1982 1.Beg.Makalu-Westwand "Polen-Führe",V+/A0,Eis bis 50°,8463m,
(Himalaya,Tibet/Nepal)
1983 1.Beg.Thalay Sagar-Nordost-Pfeiler,6904m, (Garhwal Himalaya,Indien)
1985 1.Winterbest.Dhaulagiri,8167m, (Himalaya,Nepal)
Gerd Schauer, Isny im Allgäu

Thalay Sagar, Northeast Buttress. A seven-man Polish-Norwegian team set up Base Camp at 4700 meters on August 1. Two members dropped out because of sickness. The remaining five, Poles Janusz Skorek and Andrezej Czok and Norwegians Hans Christian Doseth, Havard Nesheim and Frode Guldal, placed camps at 5400 and 5900 meters before setting out alpine-style on August 16 from the 5900-meter col between Thalay Sagar and Bhrigupanth. They climbed the difficult 1000-meter-high northeast buttress (UIAA V + to VI, Al) in 7½ days. The lower section called for technical rock climbing, while the middle section, including a couloir, was mixed terrain. The most difficult was the rock band of the summit cone. They fixed rope, bivouacking two nights at 6150 meters, three nights in a great cavern at 6250 meters and two nights at 6550 meters. The weather was adverse, with rain, snowfall and wind. Despite injury in a fall by Skorek on August 20, the five reached the summit (6919 meters, 22,700 feet) on August 23 and rappelled back to 6550 meters. Ten rappels on August 24 brought them to the foot of the face. This was a new route and the second ascent of the peak. Meanwhile Ragnhild Doseth, Elzbieta Skorek and Ludwik Wilczynski reached the north ridge of Bhrigupanth near the summit (6777 meters, 22,234 feet).
Jó zef Nyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland
Quelle: American Alpine Journal 1984, Volume 26, Issue 58, Seite 273


Kangchenjunga, First Winter Ascent and Tragedy, 1986. A 17-man Polish expedition led by Andrzej Machnik made the first winter ascent of the world’s third highest mountain. Base Camp was established on December 10 at 5100 meters. They climbed the first-ascent route on the southwest side without Sherpas or artificial oxygen. They placed Camps I, II, III and IV at 6200, 6700, 7250 and 7750 meters on December 15, 20, January 2 and 3, 1986. They fixed ropes to there. After heavy snowfalls in late December, the weather in January was clear, but windy and cold. Jerzy Kukuczka and Krzysztof Wielicki arrived at Base Camp on December 20. On January 4 they tried to set out from Camp IV but were turned back by bad weather. On January 7 Andrzej Czok, Przemyslaw Piasecki, Kukuczka and Wielicki set out again from Base Camp. Despite strong winds, they proceeded rapidly from camp to camp, but they found all tents damaged by storm and snow. They set up all camps again. On January 10 they reached Camp IV. Czok was not feeling well but hoped to continue the next day. At daybreak on January 11, 1986, he decided to descend with Piasecki and “return after rest in the lower camps.” Kukuczka and Wielicki started on the final push. Higher it was colder and windier. Wielicki described the struggle as “physically and mentally very demanding.” At 1:30 P.M. he reached the summit and waited an hour before Kukuczka arrived. The visibility was good but the temperature about –35° C. He could not prevent frostbite. They found on top three yellow oxygen bottles and a broken red-and-white survey pole. Meanwhile as Czok descended, he showed evident signs of pulmonary edema. His condition worsened rapidly. A small rescue team came from Camp III. In that camp they did all they could for him, being in radio contact with the doctor in Base Camp, but at eleven P.M. Andrzej Czok expired. The next day he was buried in a crevasse near Camp III. Wielicki and Kukuczka attended the ceremony. Kangchenjunga is the fifth 8000er to be climbed in the winter. For Kukuczka this is his tenth 8000er and the third in winter. Wielicki has climbed four 8000ers, two in winter.
Józef Nyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland
Quelle: American Alpine Club 1986, Volume 28, Issue 60, Seite 215



Geboren am:
11.11.1949
Gestorben am:
11.01.1986