Maki Aritsune 'Yuko'

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Biografie:
Aritsune 'Yuko' Maki (1894-1989)
Yuko Maki was the first japanese to climb extensively overseas, and the first to introduce Alpine climbing techniques to japan. Born in 1894 in Sendai, northern japan, he climbed japan's highest peak, Mt Fuji (3 720m), at the age of 10. In his early teens he climbed many of the major peaks in japan, from Goat's Foot Peak in Hokkaido to the world's largest volcano, Mt Aso, on the southern island of Kyushu. In 1915 he established a mountaineering club at his school, the prestigious Keio University in Tokyo. This was to become one of the 'Big Three' university climbing clubs in Japan, together with those at Kyoto University and at Waseda. After graduating from Keio in 1919 and brief graduate studies in the US and the UK, Maki moved to Switzerland and spent the following two years climbing in the Alps, culminating in the first ascent of the Mittellegi Ridge of the Eiger. It was during this apprenticeship in the Alps that Maki, 'that small, short, friendly man from the distant country', became a popular figure amongst the European climbing fraternity.
In 1922 Maki returned to Japan and made the climb for which he became famous in his home country, the first winter ascent of Yarigadake (3 180m), the second highest peak in the Northern Alps, the most technically challenging range in Japan. The following January he and two friends attempted Tateyama, the most northerly 3000m peak in Japan, but both friends were injured, one fatally, in the winter ascent. Then, in 1925, Maki led the first Japanese expedition overseas, achieving the first ascent of Mt Alberta (3619m) in the Canadian Rockies.
At this point Maki began entertaining the notion of organizing the first Japanese expedition to the Himalaya and, in order to train and test equipment, he made a number of extreme winter ascents, including Fuji in 1932 and, in 1935, Paektusan (2744m), the highest peak on the Korean peninsula which sits on what is now the border between North Korea and Chinese Manchuria, overlooking the Siberian plain.
In 1936 a group from Rikyo University technically won the race to the Himalaya by successfully climbing Nanda Kot (6860m). In 1937 war broke out between China and Japan, and Japanese participation in international climbing was suspended until the end of the Second World War. Maki was then placed at the forefront of Japan's post-war alpine re-emergence, as Chairman of the Japanese Mountaineering Association in 1944-45 (and again, from 1951 to 1955). Nepal opened its borders and a new race was on, to climb the giants. The French went for Annapurna, the Swiss and British for Everest, and the Japanese for Manaslu. The first two Japanese expeditions to Manaslu, in 1953 and 1955, both ended in failure but in 1956 Yuko Maki, at the age of 62, led the third Japanese expedition to the world's seventh highest peak. This time they were successful. On 9 May Manaslu became the eighth 8000m peak to be conquered and the Japanese had climbed their first 8000er. For Maki this was the crowning achievement in a lifetime of alpine pioneering. In 1965 he was awarded the Emperor's Prize for Cultural Achievement.
Michael Jardine
Quelle: Alpine Journal Volume 95, 1990-91, Seite 302-303

Maki Yuko, * Sendai(Japan), + Tokio











http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c4/Yukou_Maki.jpg/170px-Yukou_Maki.jpg
Bildquelle:Daniel Anker; Die vertikale Arena
Yuko Maki war der erste Japaner, der viel in Übersee kletterte und die erste alpine Klettertechnik nach Japan einführte. Er bestieg im Alter von 10 Jahren den höchsten Berg Japans, den Mt. Fuji,3 720 m. In seinen frühen Jugendjahren bestieg er viele der wichtigsten Gipfel in Japan, vom Goat's Foot Peak in Hokkaido bis zum Welt gößten Vukan, Mount Aso, auf der südlichen Insel Kyushu. 1915 gründete er einen Bergsteigerclub an der renommierten Keio Universität in Tokio. Nach dem Abitur in Keio im Jahr 1919 und einem kurzen Absolventenstudium in den USA und Großbritannien zog Maki in die Schweiz und verbrachte die folgenden zwei Jahre in den Alpen und bestieg den Eiger-Mittellegigrat .
Im Jahr 1922 kehrte Maki nach Japan zurück und machte mehrere Erstbesteigungen, für die er in seinem Heimatland berühmt wurde.
Maki wurde in den Jahren 1944-45 und von 1951 bis 1955 Vorsitzender des japanischen Bergsteigerverbandes.
1921 Best.Dufourspitze,4634m, (Walliser Alpen)
1921 Best.Matterhorn,4478m, (Walliser Alpen)
1921 Best.Aletschhorn,4195m, (Berner Alpen)
1921 1.Beg.Eiger-Mittellegigrat,3970 m (Berner Alpen)
1922 1.Winterbest.Yarigadake,3180 m, (Japanische Nordalpen)
1923 1.Winterbest.Vers.Tateyama,3000m, (Japan
1925 Leiter der japanische Expedition in die Kanadischen Rocky Mountains
1925 1.Best.Mount Alberta,3619 m, (Kanadischen Rocky Mountains)
1926 Best.Matterhorns-Zmuttgrat,4478m, (Walliser Alpen)
1926 Beg.Eiger-Mittellegigrat,3970 m, (Berner Alpen)
1932 1.Winterbest.Mount Fuji,3720m, (Japan)
1935 1.Best.Paektusan,2744 m, (Koreanischen Halbinsel,Nordkorea/China)
1956 Expeditionleiter der dritten japanischen Manaslu- Expedition, (Himalaya,Nepal)
Gerd Schauer, Isny im Allgäu


Geboren am:
05.02.1894
Gestorben am:
02.05.1989