Anker Daniel

(Bearbeiten)

Biografie:
Alpinjournalist und Alpinhistoriker
Schweizer Extrembergsteiger
Dez. 1983 Besteigung des Fitz Roy über die "Amerikaner-Route" mit Th. Wüschner;
6. Besteigung des Cerro Torre über den Südostpfeiler
Besteigung des Pointe Guillaume über eine teilweise neue Route mit Th. Wüschner;
25. Oktober 1985 - Besteigung des Jannu (7710m) über den Südgrat (Franzosenroute von 1962) mit B. Rankwiler im Alpinstil und ohne Zwischenlager.
Expeditionsleiter der Schweizer Annapurna Himal Winter-Expedition 1986/87. Besteigungsversuch der Annapurna I (8091m) endete in 5300m Höhe am 30.November auf der Spanierrroute (Südwand). Sein Expeditionsgefährte R. Brinkmann war durch Krankheit so geschwächt, dass kein weiterer Besteigungsversuch unternommen wurde.
1986 - Besteigung des Huascaran Norte (6655m) über die Nordwand, auf neuer Route mit 2 Biwaks im Mai mit seinem Landsmann Kurt Saurer.
1987 - Expeditionsleiter der Schweizer Barun-Himal Expedition mit 3 Teilnehmern.. Besteigungsversuch des Makalu (8463m) über den Südostgrat, welcher am 13. Oktober scheiterte. Es wurde eine Höhe von 7600m mit M. Fischer erreicht. Dann folgte ein Schlechtwettereinbruch und am 18. Oktober wurde nach weiteren Versuch endgültig abgebrochen.
Juli 1988 - Durchsteigung der Eiger-Nordwand in vollkommen freier Kletterei (mit Michele Piola als Gefährten) - "The Eiger Sanction".
Quelle: Archiv Proksch (Österr. Alpenklub)


Kumbhakarna (Jannu).
Our members were Georg Rubin, Res Leibundgut, Christian von Almen, Bruno Rankwiler, Daniel Anker and I as leader. We reached Base Camp on the Yamatari Glacier at 4400 meters with about 30 porters on October 8. From October 10 to 15 we made acclimatization climbs on the neighboring hills. From October 16 to 19 we reconnoitered alpine-style as far as the “Boutoir” at 6300 meters on the French first-ascent route. Anker, Rubin and Rankwiler headed up on October 22 for a summit push and on October 25 Rankwiler and Anker reached the summit (7710 meters, 25,294 feet). Rubin had to wait at the last bivouac at 6900 meters because of a stomach upset. Leibundgut, von Almen and I set out on October 23, reached the summit on October 27 and descended that same day to the “Dentelle” at 6400 feet. We all climbed alpine-style without fixed ropes and artificial oxygen. The chief difficulties were wind and cold. The technical difficulties were less than we expected. The greatest were a 15-meter-high perpendicular ice wall at 5700 meters, powder snow on the “Boutoir,” cornices on the “Dentelle” and snow-covered rock at the beginning of the summit cone. We had bivouacked at 5300, 6200 and 6900 meters. We bought most of our food in Kathmandu.
Martin Fischer, Schweizer Alpen Club
Quelle. American Alpine Journal 1985, Volume 27, Seite 252

Huascarán Norte, North Face.
After acclimatization climbs on Artesonraju and Alpamayo, Kurt Saurer and I on May 19 left the lake in the Llanganuco and walked up to the north face. We spent a bad night in a snowstorm without a tent. The next day we climbed the glacier with a difficult bergschrund and an icefield. Two pitches of steep rock were climbed with crampons on to the beginning of a big vertical icefall. We had a bad bivouac because of drifting snow. We climbed the difficult icefall on May 21 and came to the less steep part of the wall to reach our third bivouac with wet sleeping bags now weighing seven kilos. We crossed the Spanish route and traversed more to the left. Three pitches of difficult rock climbing led us to the very dangerous north ridge, which was covered with very steep powder snow. We bivouacked again before climbing over the summit of Huascarán Norte for a fifth bivouac near the Garganta.
Daniel Anker, Schweizer Alpen Club
Quelle: American Alpine Journal 1987, Volume 29, Seite 191

Swiss Makalu Attempt.
Two of the three team members, Daniel Anker and Martin Fischer, reached their high point of 7600 meters on the southeast ridge of Makalu on October 13. After they went back to Base Camp for a rest, they were struck by the blizzard of October 18 to 20. They tried to resume their climb on the 22nd, but the winds were too strong and gave no signs of abating. They abandoned the climb.
Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley
Quelle: American Alpine Journal 1988, Volume 30, Seite 193

In February 2010, on the east face of Ritacuba Blanco (5,350m) in Colombia’s Cordillera del Cocuy, Fernando Gonzalez Rubio (Colombia), Ivan Calderon (Venezuela), Simon Kehrer (Italy), and I (Italy) established Tierra de Condores (800m, 7a+) in seven days of excellent weather, with six bivouacs on the wall. We used bolts at the belays and traditional protection for climbing. The first 14 pitches are very overhanging, on good alpine rock; the last 300m are not so steep but are loose. With melting ice, the top part is dangerous. We rappelled the route and freed the pitches we hadn’t yet freed. The rock is hard sandstone that looks like granite. There are two more routes on this wall, both established more than 10 years ago: one on the extreme right, climbed by Fernando Gonzalez Rubio and friends, and one on the extreme left, a then-mixed route (since melted), soloed by Swiss climber Daniel Anker.

Helmut Gargitter, Italy
Quelle: American Alpine Journal 2009, Volume 52, Seite 165

Anker Daniel H., * Schaffhausen,später Bern (Schweiz)
1973 1.Beg.Huascarán Norte-Nordostwand „Schweizerroute“,6655m, (Cordillera Blanca,Anden,Peru)???
1983 Beg.Fitz Roy „Amerikaner-Route",3406m, (Patagonien)
1983 6.Beg.Cerro Torre-Südostpfeiler,3128m, (Patagonien)
1983 Beg.Pointe Guillaume „Anker-Wüschner-Führe“, (Patagonien)
1985 Best.Jannu-Südgrat „Franzosenroute“,7711m, (Himalaya,Nepal)
1985 1.Alleinbeg.Eiger-Nordwand bis Westgrat „Nordverschneidung“,VII+/A2,3970m, (Berner Alpen)
1986 Beg.Huascaran Norte-Nordwand „Schweizer Route“,6655m, (Cordillera Blanca,Anden,Peru)
1987 Expeditionsleiter Schweizer Annapurna Barun Himal Winter-Expedition 1986/87.
1987 Best.Vers.Annapurna I-Südwand „Spanier Route“ bis 5300m,8091m, (Himalaya,Nepal)
1987 Beg.Vers.Makalu-Südostgrat bis 7600m,8463m, (Himalaya,Nepal/Tibet)
1988 1.Beg.Tour des Jorasses-Südwand „Etoilles Filantes“,VIII+/A0,450 HM,3813m, (Montblancgebiet)
1988 1.Beg.Eiger-Nordwand bis Westgrat „Löcherspiel“,VII,3970m, (Berner Alpen)
1988 1.Beg.Eiger-Nordwand „The Eiger Sanction“,VIII+,1800 HM,3970 m, (Berner Alpen)
1988 1.Beg.Eiger-Nordwand bis Westgrat „Jeu des Trous“,VII, (Berner Alpen)
1988 1.Beg.Aguja Poincenot „Patagonicos Desparados“,VIII-,700 HM, (Fitzroy-Massiv,Patagon.)
1988 1.Beg.Aguja Guillaumet-Südostwand „Anker-Piola“,VII,550 HM,2579m,
(Fitzroy-Massiv,Patagonien)
1989 1.Beg.Aguja Raphael-Nordpfeiler „Anker-Piola“,ED-,450 KM,2482m, (Patagonien)
1991 1.Beg.Eiger-Nordwand „Le Chant du Cygne“,VIII,900 KM,3970 m, (Berner Alpen)
1992 1.Beg.Wendenstöcke „Las aguas del Inferno“, (Urner Alpen)
1997 1.Beg.Latok II „The Wall“,???,7108m, (Karakorum)
2000 1.Beg.Eiger-Nordwand „La vida es silbar“,IX+,3970m, (Berner Alpen)
1.Beg.(Alleinbeg.)Ritacuba Blanco-Ostwand „Ankerführe”,800 HM,5530 m,
(Sierra Nevada del Cocouy,Cordillera del Cocouy,Kolumbien)
Best.Cerro Torre,3128m, (Patagonien)
1.Beg.Jungfrau-Nordwand „Anker-Reichen-Route“,VI+,4158m, (Berner Alpen)
Gerd Schauer


Geboren am:
17.09.1954