Morin Nea

(Bearbeiten)

Biografie:
Morin Nea Everilda geb.Barnard, * Turnbridge Wells (Kent, GB), 1928 Paris,
1943 Tunbridge Wells, + Tunbridge Wells

Nea Morin
Vita *21. 5. 1905 als Nea Barnard in Turnbridge Wells (Kent, GB), wo sie heute noch lebt.
Chronik Ihr Vater war im Alpine Club, und zum Klettern kam sie schon als Kind. Mit Freundinnen und einem Führer entdeckte sie die Dauphiné-Alpen und die Montblancgruppe, wo sie 1926 den Grépon überschritt. 1927 lernte sie den französischen Spitzenbergsteiger Jean Morin kennen und heiratete ihn nach einem gemeinsa¬men Bergsommer in Chamonix. Nach der Geburt ihrer zwei Kinder, Denise und lan, kletterte sie der Verantwortung wegen nicht mehr mit ihrem Mann (der dann 1943 im Krieg fiel), sondern fast nur mit Freundinnen und wurde zur großen Verfechterin der Frauenseilschaft. In solcher gelangen ihr zwei Überschreitungen der Meije (1933, 1958), Aiguille de Blaitière (1934), Aiguille-du-Moine-Süd-westgrat (1947), Chapeau ä Cornes (1947), Aiguille-de-Sialouze-Überschreitung (1954), Grande-Casse-Nordwand (1934), Dente del Cimone (1958). Mit ihrer Tochter überschritt sie die Vajolettürme (1953) und durchstieg die Nordwand der Kleinen Zinne und die Grépon-Ostwand (1955). Als Seilerste führte sie ihren jungen Sohn aufs Matterhorn, Freunde und Verwandte auf die Punta Fiames (lori), auf das Weißhorn (Schalligrat), auf die Aiguille Mummery und Ravanel. Bergsteigen ist in ihrer Verwandtschaft auch großgeschrieben: Micheline Morin war ihre Schwägerin, Charles Evans ist ihr Schwiegersohn, Martin Boysen ihr Neffe...
1959 nahm sie als einzige Frau an der britischen Ama-Dablam-Expedition teil. Sie gehört dem GHM, dem AC und dem Pinnacle Club an. 1968 erschien ihr Buch »A woman's reach«, das zu den besten Bergbüchern, die je von Frauen geschrieben wurden, gehört. Als talentierte und brillante Kletterin war sie noch bis vor kurzem an ihren heimatlichen Felsen zu treffen, wo sie auch die schwierigsten Führen in ihrer langen Karriere begangen hat. -sm
Quelle: Der Bergsteiger 1983, Heft 4, Seite 71-72

Nea Morin 1905-1986
Nea Barnard's first climbs were on the Wellington Rocks on Tunbridge Wells Common: once, the screaming child had to be rescued from the top of a sandstone pinnacle by an elderly gentleman, an early lesson in the greater difficulty of climbing down. Never again did she have to call on a male for such assistance. Her father had been a parson who had lost his faith while trying to restore his wife's. The agnostic family were not well regarded by the respectable of Tunbridge Wells, which bothered Nea and her brothers not at all- 'we were outlaws and rebels and gloried in it'. What did social disapproval matter when there was a father (a member of the Alpine Club) who offered sixpences for the first to solve some boulder problem, and when the family doctor was Claude Wilson? He encouraged Nea's climbing ambitions, and in his house she met Raymond Bicknell, who told her he would be good for a loan if she ever needed cash for an Alpine season.
By this time, on family holidays in the Tyrol (where her guide was the future famous skier Hannes Schneider) and at Diablerets, Nea had discovered that climbing was something she could do really well. When she was 20, the two men with her funked the Napes Needle, and she nipped up alone. If something had been climbed, she could climb it: it never occurred to her that she might fall off.
Her first independent holiday in the Alps-saved for by working in her father's antiquarian book business-was in the Dauphine in 1925, when with guides she traversed the Ecrins, was frustrated of the Meije, and met a shy schoolboy, Eric Shipton, who became a lifelong friend. That year she was accepted by the LAC as a graduating member: there was no doubt about full membership after her next season, when she was in Chamonix with Jo Marples. They climbed the Mummery and Ravanel, the Requin, and the Geant; there was a fateful meeting with members of the GHM, among them Jean Morin, with whom Nea did boulder problems outside the Requin hut. She was invited to visit the Morins in Paris, was charmed by their passion for music as well as mountains, and was introduced to the rocks at Fontainebleau. In return she invited GHM friends for weekends at Harrison's Rocks, a childhood picnic spot she had rediscovered as a Kentish counterpart to Bleau. At each visit more and more climbs were unearthed.
Henceforth the Alps meant the GHM, and particularly Jean and Micheline Morin. With Jean in 1927 she made the first guideless ascent of the Aiguille de Roc on the Grepon, and their partnership quickly led to their engagement and marriage in 1928. With Micheline and Alice Damesme she discovered the pleasures of the cordie feminine: the three, escaping from anxious husbands and brothers, traversed the Meije in 1933 and the Blaitiere in 1934. Though she and Jean could not afford the Alps every summer, weekends at Fontainebleau kept them in trim, and in 1937 Nea had her first taste of the Dolomites with GHM friends, her initiation being the Guglia de Amicis.
In the summer of 1939 it seemed sensible that Nea with the two children Denise, born in 1931, Ian in 1935-should stay in Tunbridge Wells with her mother, while Jean remained in Paris at the Ministry of Armaments. After the fall of France he made his way to England to join de Gaulle and-haunted by the memory of the refugees he had seen on French roads-insisted on his family moving away from invasion-threatened Kent. So Nea spent the war years in North Wales; with John Barford and Menlove Edwards she was soon attacking all the hardest routes of the day: Longland's and Curving Crack on Clogwyn du'r Arddu, and the Three Cliffs, where she pioneered the route that bears her name.
There were no more climbs with Jean: the plane in which he was returning from a special mission in 1943 was shot down. In 1947-by now President of the LAC-Nea was back in France with GHM friends at the International Meet at Chamonix, when with Micheline and two Austrians she traversed the Aiguilles du Diable. Her climbing was now very varied: there were Pinnacle Club meets- she was President of the Club in 1954-,courses for beginners at Plas-y-Brenin, climbing with her own family, and still some major expeditions. Perhaps the hardest was the Pilier Sud of the Ecrins in 1955, with Denise and Georges Lambert.
Nea had already translated two French climbing books when she was asked to undertake Maurice Herzog's Annapurna. She invited me to collaborate-and for me that was the beginning of a very happy partnership in further translations (Bernard Pierre's Nun Kun book, and Gervasutti's Climbs) and on the hills. With some of our Annapurna fee we took Bernard Perren for the Schalligrat of the Weisshorn (1953), the most entirely enjoyable grande course I have ever made. When she and Denise climbed the Mer de Glace face of the Grepon-probably the first cordee feminine, certainly the first mother-and daughter rope to do so-I was on another rope with a peculiar guide from Courmayeur. And in 1958 she led me over the Meije-the first British feminine party-25 years after the cordee feminine of 1933. Micheline was again there, this time partnered by a French schoolboy of 18. We three were well into our fifties.
It was a privilege to climb with Nea. She was thoroughly competent on snow and ice, but on rock she was beautiful, flowing up with the apparent effortlessness that came from knowing exactly how to use her body, how to plan the moves ahead. She inspired total confidence in her second: behind her, one could tackle climbs one had thought well beyond one's reach. She knew how good she was, but no top climber was ever less of a prima donna. She wanted to make better climbers of those she led and-instructed, and gave them time and energy that could have gone to building up her own reputation.
In 1959, Emlyn Jones invited her to join his party for Ama Dablam. The walk-in was a misery, because of a recent injury to her chronically weak left knee. She played her part in establishing camps, and in the search for George Fraser and Mike Harris, but the return journey was even more painful than the outward-'it seemed as though my bones were grinding in their sockets'-and she arrived back in Kathmandu two stone lighter and with a badly damaged hip.
After that there were no more big mountains; but there was her record of them in A Woman's Reach, the book of a climber who has thought a great deal about her craft, and has analysed her own technique and temperament. After an operation on her hip she was able to climb rocks again, in Wales, Cornwall and the Dorset cliffs; but she found that mind and body were no longer in perfect harmony, and that not leading was harder for her than leading. In 1968 and 1969 she attended the Rendezvous Haute Montagne at Engelberg and Zermatt, for women climbers of many nations. In 1972 she was with the LAC Meet in the Dolomites and climbed the Sella Towers and traversed the Fünffingerspitze.
Since the war she had continued to live in Tunbridge Wells, in the family home in Church Road. After Denise's marriage to Charles Evans in 1957 she spent much time with them and their three sons at Bangor and Capel Curig. It was here that she had her stroke, in December 1981. The last years in a nursing-home were indeed sad; though she had been just able to appreciate her own election to Honorary Membership of the Club in 1981, she could not take in the news that her daughter, and climbing partner, had become the first woman President last year. Now we can look back beyond the painful last phase to the Nea of her great days: a brilliant climber and a rare person.
Janet Adam Smith
(Janet Carlelan)
Quelle: Alpine Journal Volume 92, 1987, Seite 290-292


1926 Best.Aiguilles Mummery,3700m, und Ravanel,3696m, (Montblancgebiet)
1926 Best.Dent de Requin,3422m, (Montblancgebiet)
1926 Best.Dent de Geant,4009m, (Montblancgebiet)
1927 Überschr.Grépon,3482m, (Montblancgebiet)
1933 Überschr. (1.Frauenseilschaft) Meije,3983m, (Dauphiné)
1933 Best.(1.Frauenseilschaft) Aiguille de Blaitière,3522m, (Montblancgebiet)
1934 Überschr.Aiguille de Blaitière,3522m, (Montblancgebiet)
1934 Beg.Grande Casse-Nordwand,3855m, (Vanoise-Massivs,Grajischen Alpen)
1937 Best.Guglia Edmondo de Amicis,2150m, (Pale di Misurina,Ampezzaner Dolomiten)
1937 Beg.Aiguille Qui Remue, 3724m (Montblancgebiet)
1938 Best.(1.Frauenseilschaft) Aiguille Mummery,3700m, (Montblancgebiet)
1947 Überschr.Aiguilles du Diable,4114m, (Montblancgebiet)
1947 Beg.Aiguille-du-Moine-Südwestgrat,3412m, (Montblancgebiet)
1947 Best.Chapeau ä Cornes,3432m, (Montblancgebiet)
1953 Überschr.Vajolettürme,2805m, (Rosengarten)
1953 Beg.Kleine Zinne-Nordwand,2857m, (Sextener Dolomiten)
1953 Beg.Weisshorn-Schalligrat,
1954 Überschr.Aiguille de Sialouze,IV+,3576m, (Dauphiné)
1955 Beg.Grepon-Ostwand,3482, (Montblancgebiet)
1955 Beg.Ecrins-Pilier Süd,4102m, (Dauphiné)
1958 Überschr.Meije,3983m, (Dauphiné)
1958 Best.Dente del Cimone,2680m, (Pala,Dolomiten)
1959 Teiln.Britische Ama Dablam-Expedition, (Himalaya,Nepal)
1959 Best.Ambu Gyabjen,ca.6300m, (Barum Himal,Nepal)
1972 Best.Sellatürme,2688m, (Sella,Dolomiten)
1972 Überschr.Fünffingerspitze,Fünffingerspitzen,IV,600 KM,2996m, (Langkofelgruppe,Dolomiten)
Best.Matterhorn,4478m, (Walliser Alpen)
Beg.Punta Fiames-Südostkante "Fiameskante",V,450 KM,2297m, (Pomagagnonkette,Ampezzaner Dolomiten)
Gerd Schauer, Isny im Allgäu


Geboren am:
21.05.1905
Gestorben am:
12.07.1986