Norgay Tenzing

(Bearbeiten)

Biografie:
geboren in Thami (Nepal)

Quelle: Rivista Mensile Volume 107, 1986, Seite 402 f
Quelle: Himalaya Journal Volume 43, 1985/86,Seite 158 ff

Tenzing Norgay c. 1915-1986
Tenzing was born in the village of Thami, probably in 1915. Like a number of Sherpas at that time he moved to Darjeeling as a young man, and it was there that he was chosen as a member of the team of Sherpa porters for the 1933 British Expedition to Everest. He took part in further attempts from the Tibetan side in pre-war years and in 1949, when Nepal opened its frontiers to foreigners, he was engaged by several other expeditions, including reconnaissances of Everest by its southern approaches. He was sirdar to Eric Shipton's team on Everest in 1951 and Cho Oyu in 1952. With such a record, Tenzing was my obvious choice as Sherpa leader for the 1953 Everest expedition.
We first met in Kathmandu in March 1953. I immediately liked the man, his enthusiasm was infectious and it became apparent during our trek that he was personally keen to reach the summit; he had climbed to over 8500m with Lambert the previous spring. Our friendship grew in the following weeks, and the choice of himself and Hillary to make the main attempt on the peak was a foregone conclusion before we set up our Base Camp; it was also appropriate that a Sherpa should be included in the attempt. I will never forget our emotional embrace when he and Hillary returned on 30 May after reaching the top.
There was a storm of enthusiasm on Tenzing's return, but there were also difficult questions from the press-who had reached the top first?-was he Indian or Nepalese?-and so on. It was his first taste of a world hitherto unknown to him, but he weathered it all. Nehru was concerned lest Tenzing might be subjected to undesirable political influences, and therefore arranged for him to be appointed Chief Instructor to the Mountain School in Darjeeling, created to mark our achievements. For the next 20 years he played there a notable part in introducing young Indians to the mountains. And it was from there that he made his many visits to other countries. He had received only an elementary education, but apart from being fluent in Tibetan, Sherpa, Nepal and Hindi languages, he picked up a smattering of other languages during his travels. He made up for his deficiencies in literacy with his infectious laugh and his famous smile, making friends everywhere he travelled as India's ambassador-at-Iarge. He also founded a seminary at Thyangboche monastery for boys entering the priesthood.
In later years, Tenzing was a tour leader for American travellers to Lhasa, and on one occasion to Antarctica. Our last meeting three years ago was by chance in Chengdu in Central China, when I was with a parliamentary delegation. In such an improbable setting we found ourselves joined in another long embrace, to the astonishment and delight of my colleagues and the hotel guests.
Tenzing's second wife Daku, an attractive, intelligent, sound business woman who managed his household and trekking agency, became a dear friend of our family, as were his two daughters by his first marriage. As a small boy his eldest son, Norbu, was cared for by one of my daughters, who was matron of his school at the time. A lover of animals, Tenzing became a successful breeder" of Tibetan terriers. A visit to his house in Darjeeling was a daunting experience because of his four fierce hounds straining at their leashes to demolish his many visitors!
Although Tenzing was an immediate friend to everyone, I like to think that his special affections and loyalty were reserved for his companions in 1953. He joined some of our periodic reunions, hosted a 25th anniversary party at his home in 1978 and, on each occasion, it was as though the years had rolled back to those unforgettable weeks we spent together on Everest in 1953.
John Hunt

Charles Warren writes:
May I write something about myoid friend" of former years, Tenzing Norgay? Not about him as the hero of Everest, as he became, but as the chap that I knew on Everest in the thirties.
Tenzing came to Everest with us for the first time in 1935, when Eric Shipton selected him as a porter on his Reconnaissance Expedition of that year and, at the age of 21, he was our youngest porter.
Now in those days it was the custom for each Sahib to have a specifically named porter attached to him as his personal batman and helper, and in that capacity Tenzing was allocated to me, not only in 1935 but also on the two subsequent expeditions in 1936 and 1938, during which he assisted me with the medical equipment and oxygen.
I can remember how once I was called into medical consultation by the Dzongpen of Shekar and went along to see him, with Tenzing carrying the medical case. While I was in consultation Tenzing was given a meal and a tip. After that I rose considerably in reputation with him as his Doctor Sahib.
At first, in those days, we couldn't talk to each other easily because of language difficulties. But usually a laugh, a smile and a gesture were enough for both of us to know what was wanted. I used dearly to love seeing Tenzing's cheerful face at the entrance to my tent nearly every morning. He did not read or write, but he was a good linguist. Already by 1938, when he did so well above the North Col with Tilman, he could converse in English quite well. And by 1957, when he visited me here in Felsted, he spoke the language very well indeed.
Here, for a day or two, he enjoyed the peace of the countryside as a break from his lionization in London. A countryman at heart, what he enjoyed being shown here was our pretty village and the lovely Felsted school gardens, and their farmyard. An ex-yak-herdsman in youth, he remained a lover of animals at heart. At home he bred Lhasa terriers. When staying with us here he was much interested in our pedigree silver tabby cats. Charmingly, he made great friends with my aged mother-in-law. They got on famously and, much to her delight, he wrote us a letter from India in which was the memorable enquiry: “and now, dear Dr Warren, how is your cats and your mother-in-law?”
The hero of Everest, yes. But not the conqueror. I don't accept that expression about any mountaineer. But Tenzing, above all, what a nice person! He had the same kind of integrity of outlook in mountaineering matters as his old climbing companion of the thirties, Eric Shipton.
Quelle: Alpine Journal Volume 92, 1987, Seite 287-289


Geboren am:
1915
Gestorben am:
09.05.1986