Ogi Fritz jun.

(Bearbeiten)

Biografie:
Kandersteg (Schweiz)
Fritz Ogi, Bergführer und Freund vieler britischer Kletterer, starb am 14. November 1979 im Alter von 77 Jahren in Kandersteg. Fritz war ein Enkel des Fritz Ogi, der mit Melchior Anderegg und Leslie Stephen 1860 die Erstbesteigung des Blümlisalphorns machte. Er war der älteste von 5 Söhnen von Fritz Ogi (Vater), die allesamt bekannte Kandersteger Bergführer wurden.
Fritz war ein großer Mann und sehr stark, aber im Charakter war er ruhig, extrem freundlich, sehr zuverlässig und ein Freund für alle, die ihn kannten oder die Berge liebten. Obwohl im Tal unscheinbar, hatte er immer die Kontrolle in den Bergen, vor allem bei schlechtem Wetter oder schweren Bedingungen. Er wurde nicht nur in Kandersteg, sondern in allen benachbarten Tälern sehr geliebt. 1922 wurde er Führer. Er hat die meisten der großen Berge im Berner Oberland und viele im Wallis bestiegen. Viele Jahre nach dem Krieg leitete Fritz die Bergrettungseinsätze in Kandersteg und eine große Zahl von Bergsteiger verdanken ihm ihr Leben. Nach dem Krieg leitete Fritz etwa 20 Jahre lang die Bergsteigerabteilung des Internationalen Pfadfinder Chalets in Kandersteg. Späteren leitete er auch die Skischule und war auch hier er ein erfolgreicher Lehrer.

W. D. Macpherson writes:
Fritz Ogi, guide and friend of many British climbers, died in Kandersteg on 14 November 1979 aged 77. Fritz was a grandson of the Fritz Ogi who, with Melchior Anderegg and Leslie Stephen, made the first ascent of the Blümlisalphorn in 1860. He was the eldest of 5 sons of Fritz Ogi (father), all of whom became well known Kandersteg guides.
I have had the good fortune of climbing with Fritz and his brothers for more than 50 years, and in the 1920s with their father. The father, like many guides of his generation, had engagements year after year with the same clients with whom he climbed in many parts of Switzerland. He was short and comparatively small, like Alois Pollinger, but never seemed in any difficulty whether on rocks, snow or ice. He must have been a good teacher as all 5 sons have proved guides of the highest class and have all possessed a real love of the mountains.
Fritz was a big man and very strong, but in character he was quiet, extremely kind, very reliable and a friend to all who knew him or who loved the mountains. Although unassuming in the valley he was always in control on the mountains, particularly when weather or conditions were bad. I have not known a more careful guide particularly over the cutting of safe steps on steep snow or ice. He had a nice sense of humour, was not hurried by time and was much loved not only in Kandersteg but in all neighbouring valleys. He became a guide in 1922, my first climb with him being in August 1926 on the Tschingellochtighorn. Since then I have climbed most of the big Oberland peaks with him and many of those in the Valais. For many years after the war Fritz was in charge of Mountain Rescue operations at Kandersteg. The increase of guideless climbing led to numerous rescue expeditions and there must be a large number of people now living who owe their lives to Fritz. One of the most remarkable on a very dark Autumn night in a snow storm was the saving of some climbers trying to descend the Wildelsigengrat of the Balmhorn, the party having become stranded owing to exhaustion and frostbite. After the war for a period of about 20 years Fritz was in charge of the Mountaineering Section of the International Boy Scouts' Chalet at Kandersteg. In later life he was in charge of the Beginners Ski School and here again he was both popular and a successful teacher.
The relationship of guide and amateur when they have been a partnership for so long is difficult to describe in words. The relationship is more than a friend, much more than a companion. I feel Fritz can justly be compared to one of the most famous guides of old Melchior Anderegg (who spent a considerable time at Schwarenbach and was, I believe, the first person to climb the Balmhorn with an English party consisting of Lucy Walker and her father), who has been described as 'pre-eminent not only among mountaineers but also among men' and of whom it was said 'no one could or ever did find fault with Melchior Anderegg.' No truer nor more appropriate saying could be applied to Fritz.
Fritz named his home 'Chalet Bergfriende' which I think represents a perfect epitaph for him since no one appreciated better than he did that 'the peace of the mountains passeth all understanding' He was supported by his wife Frieda, who survives him and by a son and daughter to whom I know that all Fritz's English friends would like to send their sympathy.
Quelle: Alpine Journal Volume 86, 1981, Seite 263


Geboren am:
1902
Gestorben am:
14.11.1979