Fanshawe Andy

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Biografie:
Andy Fanshawe (1963-1992)
Andy Fanshawe was killed in a fall while climbing Eagle Ridge, Lochnagar, in the Cairngorms on 14 March. He was 28 years old. One of Britain's most outstanding mountaineers, he was universally respected and liked in the climbing community for his immense fnthusiasm and essential kindness.
Born in Helsby, Cheshire, Andy was introduced to the hills at an early age by his parents who were keen walkers. He was an active member of Wilmslow Grammar School's climbing and walking club, visiting the gritstone edges of Derbyshire and Cheshire from the age of 15. He was confronted with tragedy early in his climbing career when a schoolmaster, taking him and other youngsters up Sharp Edge on Blencathra in the Lake District in snow conditions, slipped and fell to his death. But Andy's enthusiasm for climbing was not diminished. In 1980 he climbed his first extreme, characteristically going straight in at E2 on Vector at Tremadog, falling off three times on the awkward crux on the top pitch, before finally climbing it.
In 1981 he entered the Royal School of Mines in London, studying geology. His enthusiasm for climbing was unabated with weekend forays to Scotland. His organisational ability was shown by his becoming secretary and then vice president of the Imperial College Mountaineering Club. At this time he led his first expedition, going to Ecuador to make the first ascent of the West Ridge of EI Obispo (53 19m), the first solo ascent of Monja Grande (5160m) and the second ascent of Fraille Occidental (5050m), with an ascent of Chimborazo and a quick dash down to Peru with Mark Dickson to climb Huascaran, with two packets of biscuits and two tins of sardines for rations - they were so broke.
After university Andy worked for a short time in mining engineering in South Africa and then for RTZ Oil and Gas in Britain, but a life in and around climbing was becoming increasingly important to him. He had his first full season in the Alps in 1985, starting in the Dolomites with the Preuss Crack and Yellow Edge and then moving on to the Oberland to make an attempt on the North Face Direct of the Gspaltenhorn. He was washed off it by a violent storm but returned a few days later to climb the North Face Direct of the Grosshorn. He finished the season in Chamonix, forming a parmership with John Taylor and climbing the South West Pillar of the Dru and the North Ridge Direct on the Droites.
Andy then embarked on his most challenging project yet - an expedition to make the first traverse, alpine-style, of the magnificent twin-peaked Chogolisa (7654m) in the Karakoram. It was an ambitious venture for a first Himalayan trip but the team were determined and well organised, and they received the Nick Estcourt Memorial Award. The climb was successful, a particularly bold ascent in the best style by the five participants.
On his return to Britain Andy became National Officer of the British Mountaineering Council. His enthusiasm and openness enabled him to relate effectively to the young climbers, the older members of the climbing fraternity who sat on the committees, and officials of various government departments; he cheerfully cut through red tape and made things happen. He hosted a series of successful visits by foreign climbers and an international jamboree for young climbers from all over the world.
During this period he was caught in an avalanche when on the way down from the summit of Ben Nevis in bad weather. His partner and best friend, John Taylor, was killed and he was severely injured. Within four months he was climbing hard once again, leading rock routes of E5 standard for the first time.
In 1988 I had the good fortune to get to know him well when he came on an expedition I led to Menlungtse in Tibet. Together with Alan Hinkes he made the first ascent of the West Peak - another bold and determined piece of climbing. The following year he led an expedition to Makalu. Although heavy snows forced them to abandon their attempt to make a complete traverse of the mountain, he made the first ascent of Peak 4 (6720m) with Ulric Jessop – a push of three days' hard technical climbing up its S ridge.
Andy left the BMC in 1990 and was appointed fund raising director for the Barrow Hospital Scanner Appeal. He approached the task with characteristic energy and helped raise £I.5m. In that year he married Caroline Jerran and moved to the Eden valley in Cumbria. Although he went two years without a Himalayan expedition, he made lightning forays to the Alps in the winters of 1990 and 1991, climbing the North Face of the Eiger and the Croz Spur of the Grandes Jorasses with Ulric Jessop. His first book, Coming Through (1990), describes his three expeditions. He was full of plans for the future, working on an ambitious book describing the 40 best alpine-style climbs in the Himalaya and planning an alpine-style ascent of the N ridge of K2.
Andy was a brilliant and forceful climber, a talented writer and an excellent organiser. Above all, he was a person whose enthusiasm, warmth and essential kindness had earned universal affection and respect. He will be sorely missed by everyone who had the privilege of knowing him.
Chris Bonington
Alan Hinkes writes:
Andy burst into the British climbing scene as BMC National Officer, having just boldly traversed Chogolisa with a group of friends. He had an irrepressible drive and enthusiasm. I remember him with the Polish climbers in Scotland in 1987. He turned up with giant catering tins of beefburgers and sausages and tucked into the contents with relish not even bothering to reheat them. The Poles opted for Fort William's fish and chips! Andy and I quickly formed a friendship, often inexplicably addressing each other by our surnames. On Menlungtse we teamed up and climbed the W face of the West Peak, complementing each other and working together in harmony. There is no doubt that Andy was a brave and talented climber - a shooting star that flashed through the mountaineering firmament, never to be forgotten.
Quelle: Alpine Journal Vol. 98, 1993, Seite 326-328


Geboren am:
1963
Gestorben am:
14.03.1992