Allmen Christian von

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Biografie:
geboren 1928
Schweiz

Mount Louis. A new route on the south face of Mount Louis was made on August 30 and 31. The climb ascends from the lower end of the amphitheater for 250 feet up a thin crack, which is not difficult after the first rope length. The route then traverses right on slabs and ledges for 150 feet to an intersection of four cracks, from where a crack is followed upward for 150 feet, then right for 50 feet onto a pronounced ledge. From here the route leads up over slabs and into a narrow chimney, which is followed for 100 feet to the base of a 150-foot inside corner. The first 70 feet of this corner are the crux of the climb, and here two pitons were placed, one for direct aid. Above, the route ascends a large gully for 200 feet, and then traverses left and slightly upward over smooth slabs, crossing two smaller gullies, to a point below a pronounced buttress. The normal route is now joined at the point where it crosses from the east to the south side of the mountain, by ascending to the right of the buttress. Nine and a half hours were required for the ascent from the base to the summit. The members of the party were Christian Von Allmen, Clair Brown, Jeff Pope and Hans Gmoser.
Hans Gmoser, Alpine Club of Canada
Quelle: American Alpine Journal 1962, Vol. 13, Seite 237

Kumbhakarna (Jannu). Our members were Georg Rubin, Res Leibundgut, Christian von Almen, Bruno Rankwiler, Daniel Anker and I as leader. We reached Base Camp on the Yamatari Glacier at 4400 meters with about 30 porters on October 8. From October 10 to 15 we made acclimatization climbs on the neighboring hills. From October 16 to 19 we reconnoitered alpine-style as far as the “Boutoir” at 6300 meters on the French first-ascent route. Anker, Rubin and Rankwiler headed up on October 22 for a summit push and on October 25 Rankwiler and Anker reached the summit (7710 meters, 25,294 feet). Rubin had to wait at the last bivouac at 6900 meters because of a stomach upset. Leibundgut, von Almen and I set out on October 23, reached the summit on October 27 and descended that same day to the “Dentelle” at 6400 feet. We all climbed alpine-style without fixed ropes and artificial oxygen. The chief difficulties were wind and cold. The technical difficulties were less than we expected. The greatest were a 15-meter-high perpendicular ice wall at 5700 meters, powder snow on the “Boutoir,” cornices on the “Dentelle” and snow-covered rock at the beginning of the summit cone. We had bivouacked at 5300, 6200 and 6900 meters. We bought most of our food in Kathmandu.
Martin Fischer, Schweizer Alpen Club
Quelle: American Alpine Journal 1985, Vol. 27, Seite 252

Geboren am:
1928